Friday Feb 29, 7:15 - 8:45, 7'6 Kingfish
Had the alarms set for 6:30 this morning as sun is definitely coming up earlier, plenty bright by 6:30 probably even 6 for a real early surf start. My body on the other hand maybe not so ready, so I stayed in bed and sent Joel off for a surf check, he skated on down and came back with the report. He was a bit indifferent but indifferent won't cut it when there is a 150 session goal to be met so I rallied and got out of bed and dragged him back off the couch also (he had laid back down after his check) and we went for it. His report said it wasn't that big and wasn't breaking at 38th and was kinda foggy but not that foggy, anyway I elected to take the Kingfish again. Had I the opportunity to do it over again I'd probably take the Brewer or Taylor, surf was bigger than I expected from Joel's report and some of the waves were actually pretty steep racers that I think are actually easier to catch on Brewer or Taylor than the super flat, super fat rockerless kingfish. But, excuses excuses...I had a good session caught a fair # of waves, but also found myself wiping out on one of the bombs, wiping out on another one that should've been real good, and getting caught inside after trying to sneak over too far and pick off some waves in between 1st and 2nd and inside a bit...every time I'd do that, seems some huge set would swing through outside and I'd be stuck in the foampit, every time. Got tossed around a few times as a result.
Sun came out more and more throughout the morning, by end of session it was shining bright. Another beautiful day. Looking forward to the weekend in Santa Cruz -- went to Tahoe last weekend and I really missed the beach house!
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