I may very well have caught my best wave ever this morning. Quite possibly so. I won't outright claim it as my best ever as mind you I have had some pretty good waves in my short surfing career, but for all out combination of length of ride, punch of wave, plus ability of surfer on wave (me) this may take the cake. For more detail here is Joel and my IM conversation on the subject:
Joel: so how was it this morn?
Sent at 3:10 PM on Thursday
me: might've caught my best wave ever
Sent at 5:08 PM on Thursday
Joel: congrats
right or left?
me: right, always rights
rights rights rights rights
i guess not so much my best wave ever, just my best surfed by me wave ever
i've caught many waves equally as good but never surfed them as good
making sense?
Joel: yeah
you've been surfing so much lately you really gotta be making considerable improvements
me: yeah improvements
i'm sitll really bad backside
even though I don't surf lefts hardly ever, when I do get one I'm so much better
i dunno why I suck so much backside
but this one I didn't suck on
Joel: cuz it's harder
me: it was just one of those really long 1st peak waves from outside that I kept going on
Joel: I can't do anything backside
just straight ahead
me: yeah
most of the time thats me too
i'm getting better though
on this one I had a few weak cutbacks and a lot of up and downs, whatever you wanna call em, just down and up
and maintained good solid speed throughout
surf really very good this morning and only like at most 10 guys out
everybody was quite stoked about it
Joel: where was everybody
me: dunno
my best wave ever was recorded on video
Joel: Well looks like this swell will stick around til Sun or Mon...ok where
me: some guy was filming from the rocks. I asked him what for, he's making a movie he said
said it will be out in April
Joel: cool
me: can't remember what it was called
maybe I'll be in it
Joel: he said he filmed ya?
me: starring role
yeah cuz I came in right after it
Joel: koo
you'll have to look for it
me: yep
Anyways so yeah that's not the most exciting IM chat conversation ever, but it saves me the effort of typing all that twice -- laziness WINS! Was a good wave though. I was happy with myself afterwards, had an internal debate over paddling back out for more or going in on a high note. As it was already 9 and I DO have to work still, I went in.
Happy Valentine's Day! We're going to Cirque du Soleil Kooza show tonight. 2nd row! Should be exciting.
Update! Now with photos. I took these on my wake-up surf check before I hustled back home suited up and got out there myself.
.JPE.jpg)
No comments:
Post a Comment