Monday, April 28, 2008

Session 67 - April 26 - GWC

Saturday April 26, 2:30-3:30, 6'2 KS Fish

Despite what could have been somewhat promising conditions for a decent session -- light winds, sunshine -- things didn't really come together Saturday...just wasn't a whole lot happening out there in the water, at least in my findings. Maybe earlier in the day could've offered up something a bit better, but I've been slacking on the morning surfs lately.

Was headed to SF for Saturday night for a BBQ and beerfest, so made a pitstop on the way and headed over to the beach. Drove down to GWC and met Ramin and his girl there, who were chillin' on the beach. Absolutely beautiful day, not a cloud in the sky, great place to be out in the sun, and thanks for the strawberries. I surfed for a bit out there and caught some waves, but it was just super mushy, soft lumpy surf, nothing to get excited about at all, nothing really to work with either. So session was pretty short, sat on the beach a bit longer and then headed to SF to go consume very large amounts of beer at beerfest, which is this beer tasting thing they do every year at Fort Mason where you pay an exorbinant fee for entrance but then get three hours of all-you-can-drink beer, of which you drink way too much to offset your ultra expensive ticket, and wind up an incoherent mess. Or at least that's what I did.

Sunday was pretty lazy, slow start, drove from SF to SC along 1 in the afternoon -- which took forever, "dream machine' traffic in HMB (airshow), and nowhere looked too appealing for surf so didn't even get wet. By the time I got home it was about dark, and surf was small so opted to mow the lawn and do a little yardwork instead of a surf. Bleh.

Beautiful weather and a fun weekend though!

Friday, April 25, 2008

Pierre the Penguin

Some pretty goofy news, but it was funny so here ya have it:

Pierre the Penguin, 25, wears his wetsuit at the Academy of ...
Pierre the Penguin, 25: Penguin's wetsuit puts him back in the swim of things

Thanks Manabu and Stokemaster for the link (and the smile! Silly penguin)

Session 66 - April 24 - Jty, LM

Thursday April 24, 6:30 - 8:30 PM, 6'2 KS fish

Although I did surf two spots, can't call this two sessions as it was on the same board (rules). I mean can you imagine if I just started cheating and calling stuff like this two separate sessions? All ethical morals and values would go right out the window. So, one session, two spots.

Left work at 4:30. Pit stop at Best Buy to buy another way over priced phone charger because the one I just bought about 2 months ago broke already. Inspired by my musical endeavors of the night before I decided to buy a new CD while I was there -- had told myself upon leaving work I would buy the new Black Keys CD if it was under $14. Best Buy was all over this, nice work guys, Black Keys Attack & Release $13.99.

I then proceeded to have about the longest surf drive ever -- maybe not in time but in traffic -- when you're just sitting there stop and go clutch in clutch out over and over time goes soooo....much......sloooooooower... I opted to take freeways this time around (I won't do that again), headed up 101 to 92, 92 to 280, 280 to Sneath, Sneath to 35, Sharp Park to 1, 1 to LM. Had to make another stop for some wax and a leash string as new board had neither. First stop #1 Sonlight Surf Shop, closed at 5:30. Stop #2 Log Shop, had wax (I got 4) but no leash string. That's lame. Stop #3 K-Star Surf Shop is no longer there, out of business. I hate to kick a dog when it's down because that was after all somebody's business but I never liked that shop much anyways, employees had too much attitude. Finally stop #4 Nor Cal shop had leash strings so I bought 2 (50 cents each). Had thoughts of epic Montara dancing in my mind so continued driving, epic Montara, what was I thinking, it was crap, kept driving to the Jetty which was uber tiny but at least clean and a few open shoulders, and met Manabu there for a short session. Manabu in predictable nerd-speak called the waves microwaves, which I'll take that saying as well because it works quite well, they were exactly microwaves but we made it work. Caught a lot of microwaves at least, but most of them were micro and just closing out right away so practice on getting up really fast and then getting off w/o dinging the board in the very shallow water. Called it good on the microwaving about 7:40, still sunlight remaining so I jetted outta there and did the wetsuit drive to LM, delayed by road construction a bit, but got to LM and ran right in for about 30 more minutes. Was worth it, while LM was a mess at least it had a bit of size and managed to find one semi consistent left that delivered me and one other dude quite a few waves in our 30 minute window.

New board surfs good, I liked it -- dilemma too many boards too little time. It paddled well, caught waves well, and surfed well when it was given the chance to do so, which wasn't all that often.


Thursday, April 24, 2008


Nobody is at work at 7 am anymore. I remember back when I had several 7 am phone shifts every week. Those really sucked. But I did them and didn't complain (much).

Nowadays, early morning phones are handled by Ann Arbor office or maybe even Boston office now. Expansion! Kids these days have it easy around here. Seriously. Empty in here. Ghost town. Deserted. So devoid of life and movement the motion-sensored lights keep turning off on me, and I have to stand up from my chair and wave my arms around so they turn back on.

On the topic of kids, it's bring your kid to work day. That is kind of a fun concept idea. If I had kids I'd really enjoy it. I've seen just a few kids around the office today, and it brought a smile to my face. Hopefully somebody tells those kids work is not always like this, we have it pretty lucky here at big G. And yeah there aren't usually bounce-houses in the courtyard either, that's special just for you, kiddos.

It's really light really early now! I was up at 5:45 and it was already light. Light enough to surf. I didn't realize it was getting so light so early already, spring/summer creeps up on you faster than you'd expect. I'll push my morning dawn patrol start times up from 7 am to 6 am. (Or maybe not. But, I CAN if I want to)

This is turning into a random-thought blog post. I guess I really didn't have any structure in mind when I started it, so that is what happens. No point in fighting it, might as well keep on going...

Selin and I went to the Catalyst last night and saw the John Butler Trio. Good band. Fun show. We got there a bit late and so were never able to get a spot with a very good view of the stage...especially a challenge when you're 5'3 in Selin's case. So that's too bad, because seeing the music being created is part of the experience. I really did not (and still do not) know much of anything about John Butler Trio or know any of their music, but I had a chance to get these tickets at a discount from a coworker and the show was in Santa Cruz and I haven't been to a concert in a long time and I like smaller venues such as the Catalyst so I went for it. Australian Jam band, hippie type music (a lot of smoke in there) but good stuff and undoubtedly some talented musicians. John Butler did a solo performance for a while that was pretty awesome. Anyways we enjoyed it and it was good to get out of the house on a work-night.

In other news I got a new surfboard the other night. Craigslist find, funny though that it turned out the seller was the same dude I bought the old Kingfish from years ago! Nice guy, and worked out well to see him again. I even got a little 'repeat customer' discount! Sweeeeeet! Pleasure doing business with you, PC. :)

As for the new board, it's (yes) yet another Kirkshapes -- continuing my sponsorship -- nearly brand new quad fish. 6'2 x 21 x 2 5/8. (this post was interrupted by work. Rejoining now but my thought process has been interrupted). So, this now makes me the owner of not one but two 6'2 fishes.

I took the new fish home and compared it side-by-side to the KG fish. KG fish dims aren't written on the board, but it is fuller throughout the nose and tail. Thickness is about the same, center width about equal, pin (dis)placement about equal...really the biggest difference is just the fullness through the nose and tail. That is more typical of the KG shapes, Peter (who sold me the new one) did mention. Again from my non-expert viewpoint, if I had to say I'd call the new Kirkshapes more of a modernized, performance fish, while the KG is more traditional.

Anyways, we'll see how much any of this really matters at all most likely tonight after work. I brought the new Kirkshapes with me, and as I got a really early start on the day I can also get an early exit, and plan to head north to Montara or somewhere like that to try this new fishy out. Surf has been painfully small the last couple days, not a whole lot has changed, but Montara is pretty open so hopefully it's working. Other folks have reported it's been a lot of fun on a longboard in recent mornings, so hopefully that trend continues and I get some good use out of the fish. Regardless looking forward to it as I haven't surfed since Sunday.

And, just in case you were worrying, I did buy this new board with the intent of selling one of my fishes. I'll just have to decide which one. But then again, maybe I'll just say heck with it, and keep em both. How you like 'dem apples?

Monday, April 21, 2008


Unlike some friends of mine (ahem Andy Koong) I don't think the Cleveland Cavs are going to win the NBA championship this year...but...Lebron James is pretty freaking amazing.


Session 65 - April 20 - 38th/2nd Peak

Sunday April 20, 5:30 - 8 PM, 6'2 KG Fish

One of the downfalls of having a lot of boards is it's always a significant mental challenge to choose which one to use. 9'0 Becker I was just raving about yesterday? Throw it back retro a bit and bust out the 6'2 twinzer fish? Go even more retro and dust off the 7'6 uber Kingfish? Settle somewhere in between w/ the 7'0 thickshake Brewer? Or man do I get with the times and go ultra modern cutting edge w/ the 6'6 quad? Not to mention the myriad of 6'8's at my disposal, or of course the singlefin glide of the 9'6 FSC. Decisions Decisions!! Now of course obviously the surf I plan on surfing will be a significant contributor to my stick selection, but I can make a lot of those boards work in a varying range of it is always a very difficult decision...albeit a fun one.

After much debate last night I finally opted to go with the 6'2 KG. Looking back, I'm happy with my decision, although there were moments I felt a bit under-gunned out there amongst the 10'0 logs at 38th, I was able to get plenty of waves. The fish is a lot of fun, and it's definitely a challenge that I welcome to continue and progress my surfing on that type of board, it does ride a lot different than your standard shortboard. So while I've got a long ways to go before I'm styling on it like the lifelong fish devotees who rave about those boards on and on all over the internet (there really is a disproportionate number of surf blog/art type sites centered around the fish style surfboard), I'm making progress. Surf last night was good for the fish, 38th is often a really slow wave but it was walling up pretty nice last night, got some fun lefts at 38th, but the real fun started when I paddled over to 2nd peak, Sunday nights again proved good time to catch some surf, crowd really light, wind dropping, by the end of the session was just me and a few others out at 2nd peak catching wave after wave, I woulda stayed out for more but the burn in my shoulders was just getting too much to ignore so I called it good, wasting probably about another 20 minutes of solid surf sunlight...but I think I'd had my fill of waves by that point. Don't want to get too greedy.

As is the case with anything, I can surf that board way better frontside on a left, with it being so short, flat, and fast I think I struggle even more going backside, but I can definitely note improvement over time. Good.

Boss is back from Maui vacation = Nic is back to work. This post is OVER!

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Session 64 - April 19 - 38th, 2nd peak

Saturday April 19, 2:30 - 5 PM, 9'0 Becker

New board rips! That type of performance longboard is just exactly what good 2nd peak and 38th ave waves are made I'm lovin' it out there. Really fun, fast, responsive board, feel like I can go for pretty much anything on it. Even if I'm way late on a takeoff or looking at a really steep angled drop the performance aspect of the board makes it work, and if I was better, I still think you'd be able to get a nose ride out of the thing even as well...anyways it's a good board. Glad I picked it up. The old 9'6 singlefin still definitely has its place, that board is pretty sweet also, but for a session like today where we actually have a decent amount of swell and some stiff offshore winds, the 9'0 Becker is just the right board for the job.

I was lazy this morning and went to the flea market with Selin -- she knows purses better than I know surfboards and utilized that knowledge to score a pretty epic sweet deal on an old designer purse that's actually worth a solid chunk of change -- and hung out at home for a bit. Watched NBA playoffs, or at least the NBA playoffs I can actually watch with my basic (ie lame) cable package. So I watched Spurs/Suns on ABC and that's it, couldn't watch anything else because I don't get ESPN or TNT. At least I don't now...but it won't be that way for long! The prospect of this NBA playoff season was just too much to resist, so I bit the bullet and sprung for the expanded basic cable which includes all the channels from 2-82. So now I get TNT and ESPN and can watch all the games. Score. I'll have to eat free dinner at work a few times though to make up for the extra $23/month it's costing me...I know tough sacrifice to force myself to eat fresh, top of the line, organic, expertly prepared grub for dinner at work an extra night or two, but a mans gotta do what a mans gotta do. Cable guy comes out on Monday to hook it up, so I'll be watching all the NBA I can handle from then on out. Oh, other good thing, I can cancel it anytime, so unless I get too addicted to Tila Tequila and other MTV/VH1 reality trash, I'll be doing just that after the playoffs are over.

Long tangent there. Back to the surf: we've got a bit of swell this weekend, mostly local windswell but enough to pick things up and make it interesting out there, head high on the sets. Wind was blowing really hard in the afternoon when I made it out, but it was actually more offshore than anything else, holding the waves up pretty nice. Caught some fun ones, crowd wasn't too bad...big contrast from the morning masses, on my AM surf check around 9:30 am I counted EIGHTY people just at 38th and 2nd peak alone...Surfline effect in full force (fair forecast). Surf did look fun and there were a lot of waves, so could've undoubtedly gotten my share, but glad I waited until afternoon as there was less than half as many people out, a decent chunk of which were sitting out of position to catch anything decent. More waves for me! Started my session at 38th, then went over to 2nd peak, and then moved back to 38th. Caught some nuggets at each. Fun session, ended it when the cold wind got just a bit too cold for my 3/2, time for a hot shower.

The most interesting man in the world

Good advice from the most interesting man in the world:

I just saw one of these Dos Equis beer ads on TV while watching Spurs/Suns, and so I Googled it. Found this blog that had a couple of them up including this one. "Find out what it is in life that you don't do well. And then don't do that thing." Wise words interesting man.

Friday, April 18, 2008

Keep bats warm

This movie was one of my favorites back in the day. In fact it might still be. Just like Pedro, Jobu never helped me hit a curveball either.

If you like movie quotes, a friend here at work put together this site:

Where you can log in and post your favorites. You can also add YouTube video clips...kind of a fun way kill a couple of minutes. Or hours.

Oh and if you lived a neglected childhood and did not know, the movie in reference is Major League.

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Session 63 - April 17 - 1st/2nd Peak

Thursday April 17, 7:30-9:15 am, 9'0 Becker

Morning surf again. Met up with Matt Mora the night before who, who knew, lives about a mile away. Good to see him, it's been a while, went out and had a drink downtown. Little bit later of a bedtime than I was aiming for though, but such is life. Still set the alarm for 7 am and got in my exercise for the day...also a farewell session for Joel, at least until he's back in town again. Maybe sooner rather than later, we'll see what happens on his job hunt.

Enough rambling, as for the surf it was fun again, not quite as nice as yesterday's and also more crowded, but still some good waves. I wasn't on my a-game this morning, didn't catch that many, but the few I did were fun. Last one was a late takeoff, had to really angle it hard to make that one but I did...made the takeoff with knee a hoot from this older guy who was ripping on a soft-top, it's nice when the crowd is out there to have fun and enjoy themselves. Because that's really what it's all about.

Starting to get the first blooms in my yard, good sign. This winter things were looking rather bleak, was afraid I'd completely murdered my garden, but seems to be coming on strong along with the springtime sun and warmth. Rosebush had the first couple roses blooming, a few of the orange blossoms on the fence vines, (I think they're) orchids looking good, and some other ones I hadn't even noticed before looking about ready to come out and shine. Is it a sign of old age to care about my garden and plants and flowers? Probably. But they're so pretty!

solo high five

Very nice, teammates. (But, really, when did high-fiving after every made -- or even missed -- free throw become the norm? Overkill.)

Video is Andrew Bogut of the Milwaukee Bucks. Link courtesy of Bill Simmons.

Session 62 - April 16 - 1st/2nd peak

Wednesday April 16, 7 - 9 am, 9'0 Becker

Fun morning session, at my beloved home break. I'm a day late on this post, but Joel was saying this morning that Pleasure Pt is a pretty nice break to call your home break, as he was paddling back out after yet another long, perfect peeling chest high wave...and I got to say he's absolutely right. It is an amazing place to call home, I live a good life. I woke up around 6:30 to the sunshine pouring in through the windows, rolled out of bed, threw on some pants and a sweatshirt, walked outside and down the street to check the surf, looked good, back home, dragged Joel off the couch, suited up and we were in the water. Not much crowd at all, plenty of waves, no better way to start the day.

This was the opportunity I was looking for to test the new board (9'0 Becker Mike Gee X), and it was pretty sweet. Real responsive, just as it's designed to be, great addition to have that board, it's pretty much the prototype for good 2nd peak waves -- I'm giving up some paddling power but what I gain in maneuverability and performance offsets that (and then some). I'm surfing better as well, this whole blog thing and 150 session goal is pretty great actually, it gives me something to really track and see my progress. I felt I did a better job this morning of actually working WITH the wave, taking what I'm given to make for some long, fast, fun rides. Better job of cutting up and down the wave when I need to, getting high when I need speed, cutting down low to maneuver around a section or two, I actually was able to make a few waves I know I wouldn't have been able to just a short time ago. And that's great, progress.

Took out the digicam but didn't really try much to get any photos, more focused on getting waves than photos. I have a lot of respect for those surf photographers who have the discipline to shoot and not surf...tough line of work! Anyways what you see here is my best sequence of the day, Joel paddling into a fun looking roller. I need a better vantage point, nice looking back of a wave, huh?

Tuesday, April 15, 2008

Session 61 - April 13 - Hook

Sunday April 13, 6:30-8 pm, 9'0 Becker

Surf for the sake of surf session...nothing better to do so heck, why not get wet. Joel and I rode bikes over to the hook to check it, and it looked pretty not good but good enough, and it was too late and near dark to do the other task I needed to do which was ding repair, so surf it was. I'm not gonna write much about it because there's not much to write about, but it was still fun to walk down there and paddle out with my bro. We paddled out and around the rock there which is the way to do it, beats walking further. Waves pretty much stunk, they looked a lot better during our check than they did from the water...but whatever, there were 4 guys out so we all tried to make the most of it. My first session on the 9'0 uber performance longboard, and while conditions certainly sucked the board didn't...really can't get a feel for it in that slop but it seemed pretty fast and responsive, like Joel said it is. So, that's good. It'll work well on good surf days out at 2nd peak and the like, and 38th, fun to have that option available to me.

On the topic of ding repair, I suffered a DOUBLE WHAMMY right before this session...I had taken the 6'8 Taylor and BRAND NEW 6'6 Quad inside and set them in their normal resting place...but I set them too haphazardly and a few minutes later when I was outside I was startled with a yelp from Selin as BOTH the boards careened down and crashed into the side of the stove. BOOM! Double ding. Could've been worse. Both boards got a matching little ding on the right rail, but good news is those rail dings are really easy repairs, and even more good news is they're already repaired thanks to Joel the Ding King who fixed em for me today while I was at work. Good way to pay rent, houseguest! Thanks. A little sanding to do tomorrow and they'll look good as new.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Session 60 - April 13 - the yo

Sunday April 13, beach day 12:00-4ish, 6'6 KS quad

Beach day! Things were pretty flat out front so it was time to pack up the surfmobile and head north, in hunt of bigger and better things. Selin, Joel, and I loaded up the surfmobile, 6'6 inside and the new 9'0 performance longboard on the roof rack and hit the road. We didn't get far though before our first stop, a garage sale on 38th, at what turned out to be none other than Jason Ratboy Collin's house and garage sale, all kinds of sponsored surfer handouts up for sale at some pretty cheap prices, after all he got it all for free...didn't see any surfboards for sale but there was a lot of clothes and the like. Also a lot of women's stuff, including a bunch of new/used one time wetsuits...So we picked up one of those for Selin, $20 for a brand new looking Hotline 3/2 zipperless suit, very cute with pink lettering. And that's what really matters! :) but this wetsuit should be warmer and better than her current Rip Curl entry level model with the zipper that floods. She tried it on at home after our beach day and it fit so that's great, but she did work up a sweat getting it on and off, silly Selin. :) I got a beanie hat and a Santa Cruz sweatshirt as well, total cost for all three items, $27. Thanks ratboy!

So after our first brief pitstop we hit the road again. Pitstop #2 at Longs to pick up a beach umbrella (and also a scoop of ice cream, delicious), and finally our final destination. Parked and made the hike in, set up camp at a shady spot and let the day come and go. Can't beat a day at the beach. Unfortunately the surf wasn't as great as it has been in past visits, although it was still plenty good, but closing out a wasn't anything I'd want to take the new longboard out in. In fact when I was just thinking OK, looks like it's getting a bit more longboardable, a guy came in with his 6'0 broken in half so yeah, probably not the best time to take out the 9'0...Joel and I swapped off short micro sessions on the 6'6. I definitely scored it the best combo of least crowded/most consistent, and got a few great waves, one real racer that really let my 6'6 quad shine, that board is fast when you let it be. First time I've really been able to feel the potential of that board when used as it should be. Hopefully there will be more to come. Joel also got some waves, Selin got some sun, and we all got a little quiet time and R&R. Can't ask for more than that.

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Session 59 - April 12 - 2nd Peak

Saturday April 12, 5-6:30, 9'6 FSC

Trunkin' it! That's right the weather was so hot today, 80 plus, that it was time to shed the seal skin and go for a short surf in boardshorts. It's such a liberating experience to just throw on some trunks, walk outside, and walk to the surf in shorts, no wetsuit hassle...lovin' it. When I was in Baja I picked up this O'Neill wetsuit top thing, 2/1 thickness full sleeved top, and I wore it (the water in Baja on the Pacific ocean side was a bit chilly! I bought this from some surf camp guys for like $10 used, good buy). It worked perfect. I'll be putting that to use this summer whenever I can, because I was surprisingly not cold at all for pretty much my entire session...only at the very end did I start to feel the shivering coming on. Joel on the other hand, in trunks only, was shivering within 30 minutes.

Surf was actually pretty fun, caught some nice long waves...anything is fun when you don't have a wetsuit but this was actually a pretty solid session. Longboarding is fun.

Session 58 - April 11 - LM

Friday April 11, 6:30 - 8 PM, 6'8 KS

One of my favorite ways to start a weekend is with a Friday post work session. Joel's here interviewing with some companies in Santa Clara/SF so he met up at work and we cruised out together. Hit up LM so we'd have a shower available after the session so we wouldn't stink up Zac's birthday celebrations later in the evening. Surf was mediocre but doable, got a couple decent rides, not much swell right now. Certainly was a crowd out there, but still enough waves for most people to get their share, myself included. Beautiful weather!

Friday, April 11, 2008

Rockets Bear

I love those mascots, particularly the Rockets Bear who is hilarious.

Thanks to coworker Albert Chen who linked to this on his GChat status message.

Session 57 - April 10 - LM

Thursday April 10, 6:30-8 PM, 6'8 KS

Marginal Linda Marginal, not a great session but it was OK. Kind of sloppy surf out there, not as good as I was hoping for...but not horrible either. I was very torn between surf or Warriors vs. Nugs for tonight's activity, neither one turned out the way I'd have hoped, but in the end I'm happy with my choice. Physical activity vs the alternative beer consumption was a good call, even if the session wasn't great.

So I was foiled by my Linda Mar surfcheck method, which is to check this LM surf cam here, and if I see lots of people, I assume it's good and I go too. So I checked the LM surf cam today at work and I definitely did see lots of people, but why there were so many I don't know because surf wasn't anything worth getting excited about. Maybe they all have the same Linda Mar surfcheck method as me. Or maybe it was just a nice sunny evening. I think when it comes to the general LM surfing masses, sunshine is actually more of a contributor to crowds than actual surf quality itself. I bet I'm right on that one.

Anyway I was for the most part happy with how I surfed the sloppy waves, I definitely got the good ones. The other day at the Yo I noticed how this pro was able to take off on a wave that was obviously gonna close out on him but still maintain such a high line that he was able to kick out via an air, so I tried to emulate that approach and actually had moderate success, of course I never pulled off the aerial element of the exit but I still managed to make the most of the closeouts and maintain that high line on a couple of them, so, happy about that. One I almost made it out but didn't quite and then got sucked back down, that wasn't a great feeling cuz it was like slow motion I could feel it happening and then it did...but it was small LM surf, not exactly life-threatening we're talking here.

Weekend is almost here, Joel is visiting so I'll surf w/ him a bit, which is always enjoyable. Good night.

Thursday, April 10, 2008

Quiver < Hoard

As much for my own organizational/tracking purposes as for sharing with anyone, I'm making a list of all my boards and putting them here. I had to type somewhere and the blogger window was already open and as convenient as anything. Isn't that what blogs are all about?

  1. 8'10 Vernor (now broken in half but still clinging to the fragments in hope of maybe one day reglassing it and repairing)
  2. 6'9 Surftech Randy French (for sale)
  3. 7'6 ET Surf Pat Ryan kingfish (starting to delam a bit, needs some TLC, fun summertime board)
  4. 7'0 Brewer (ding-repair special, but that boards been great, very minor signs of delam showing)
  5. 9'6 FSC singlefin (bit of a beater but still rides strong and in good shape)
  6. 8'0 (or something) Miramar 70's throwback (wall-hanger, pretty pristine, amazing how I got that one)
  7. 6'2 KG Fish (good shape, fun summertime stick)
  8. 6'8 Taylor (probably the board I've used most this past winter, lots of life left)
  9. 6'8 Kirkshapes (white one, this one has been mostly kept in Mt View for when I stay there overnight and hit up HMB/Pacifica breaks, good shape)
  10. 6'8 Kirkshapes (neon yellow one, haven't surfed it yet, don't have Futures fins for it, but it's pretty clean also and mostly a copy of the other 6'8 Kirkshapes)
  11. 6'6 Kirkshapes bat-tail quad (brand new, only been used a handful of times, afraid to ding it?)
  12. 9'0 Becker Mike Gee X (uber performance longboard, bought as a pretty solid deal to replace the broken 8'10 Vernor. Haven't used it yet.)

Yeah 12 boards that is too many. Sorry Surftech Randy French you've got to go. In fact you know it's too many when I couldn't even remember every one of them -- going through my list I realized I had forgotten the KG Fish, kind of like a rockstar's girlfriends, when you can't even remember every one that surely means there's too many.

For Sale: Memories

It is with a heavy heart that I post the following:

Yep my second surfboard ever is now up for sale. I've reached the stage of my surf career where I'm on to the second round of boards...first my first-ever board, the 8'10 Vernor, broke in half. Now, board #2 is up for sale. Because I just never use it anymore. I don't know why but I guess I never really took to that board -- when I bought it I wasn't good enough to use it, so always opted for the longboard as opposed to sitting on this board not catching anything -- and now that I would be able to use it, I have too many other similar 6'8ish boards to choose from so this one just doesn't get used. But it's a bit emotional to let go of things. Hopefully I'm not on my way to becoming a reclusive old packrat with 3 back sheds full of junk from 50 years ago that has sentimental value to me so I can't get rid of it. I've seen that, and it's not pretty.

Any of my 3 readers want to buy this? As a Horace reader, I'll give you a discount, hows 50% off sound? Well let me know.

UPDATE: Sold to a stoked coworker for $100. It was a sad moment seeing it drive away, but it was time. Like a child going off to college, the board needed to spread its wings and get some rides. Sam (the new owner) is taking it out first thing Saturday, may it be the first of many epic sessions to come.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

So pitted!

This guy Rips!

Haha, that's just too good, got to put up one more...

That second one, is really tearing it up. Classic ... sharing the lineup with a aerial busting, charging, shredding remote control toy...

Session 56 - April 8 - Hook

Tuesday April 8, 6:15-8 pm, 6'8 KS

While Ramin was getting tubed a bit further north, I being a bit more fearful of the man in the grey suit decided to stick close to home in the protected calm tranquil waters of the Hook...should've joined Ramin but as we discussed a bit, there are just things you can choose to either do or not do in life that can greatly impact the chances of events happening or not happening. I chose caution over barrels this time around, but next time, I may not be so prudent...the allure of a head high barrel can have that effect on a man. (even a wise, old man such as myself. Ramin -- he's 22. He doesn't know any better.)

Anyways for my session, I rode my bike to the Hook again (and can add another con to the merit of bike-riding debate -- Flat Tires -- seriously that blows, how the heck did I get a flat tire? Oh I think I just answered that there's a huge rose bush right over my front gate. Beautiful rose bush, it really grows and blooms like crazy, I'm looking forward to that later this spring/summer. But with that rose bush I'm sure there are some thorns which I probably found with my bike tire, grrrrreat...)...Wasn't much of a crowd on the hook, in fact wasn't really a crowd at all if you took away the pack of HS Surf team groms who were swarming all over the place, was 7 of em or so and what they say about groms is true, they really do seem to be every where at every time, just all over the place constant motion. I actually tried to take a queue cue (thanks grammar police Zac) from them and move around some myself, getting a few extra waves that way so thanks HS surf team groms. Anyways they got out for a bit when their coach called em in and there were only 5 of us left, and I thought awesome 5 guys and up to that point there'd been pretty steady chest high waves coming through....but of course the whole time they were in on the beach talking there were ZERO waves, and then 2 of them left with coach and the other 5 paddled back out and we were back to the same as before....really no problem though not crowded but I did have to back off a couple good ones which would've been great if I didn't have to but can't complain, at most was still only like 15 of us out there. Anyways aside from that good start we had some really really long waits between sets, and waves were clean but not really anything worth writing more about, pretty standard small to little to no swell evening glass off at the Hook.

Monday, April 7, 2008

Session 55 - April 6 - Hook

Sunday April 6, 5:30-8, 6'8 Taylor

Just good enough...about sums up this session. Surf was just good enough to get me out there for an evening glass off session, just good enough to keep me out there until after dark waiting through the 20 minute lulls between sets, just good enough to catch a couple decent rides that made the session all worthwhile. I could've done without the long, cold wait after the sun went down for that very last set...seriously, they say you should never paddle in, always surf in, but this was pushing it...I got a little dribbler and took it in after my patience was exhausted.

Was pretty windy and I was feeling pretty lazy so opted to stick close to home, rode my bike over to the hook.

Pros for riding a bike to the break: fast, easy, looks cool.

Cons: bike locks. After about 3 hours in frigid water, hands and fingers become pretty much useless inoperable little appendages hanging limply at your side. It is dang near impossible to get those frozen blocks to operate and unlock a tiny little bike lock key -- no joke -- I struggled with that stupid thing for a good 5 minutes trying to get my fingers and my wrist to twist to the point I could get the lock open...try it sometime (or just take my word for it) it really is amazing how useless your fingers and hands and even wrist are after a long cold surf session. Finally I managed to get it unlocked, leveraging both hands and a little bit of pain, and got to ride home.

In conclusion, while even though yeah I probably could've walked home and back in less time than it took me to open the stupid bike lock, I'm going to keep on biking. It's just far too satisfying gliding right past those miserable, shivering, walking surfers on the way home. I can feel the jealousy in their to be you! I'm about to take a warm shower! Ha!

Saturday, April 5, 2008

Session 54 - April 5 - the yo

Saturday April 5, 1:30 - 5:30, 7'0 Brewer

Wow! What an amazing session. So my friend Ramin has been talking my ear off about this sick surf spot we got to go check out, you got to go, so sick, so fun, so perfect, so epic, so gnar gnar, so this so that on and on and on and today we met up there and I had my first session. And all I can say is thanks buddy you weren't lying! That was pretty incredible, great session. As a general rule, if a surf session lasts for nearly 4 hours, there's got to be something pretty damn good about exception here. Fun peaked up rights and also some racetrack lefts, but what was just so amazing about it was how crappy it was everywhere else. Blown out and not much swell at all the spots I checked up and down the coast. Yet in the middle of it all, here we were scoring some great rides, even some barrels thrown in the mix (although I didn't make it out of any, but then again, not many people were -- one to be exact that I saw)...Anyways it was pretty sweet. Needless to say I'll be back out there again I'm sure many more times.

As for my surf, I took out the 7'0 Brewer, which we all know is a pretty great board, my time-tested travel companion, that board has been around the world and back, and my go-to stick when I don't really know what kind of surf to expect. Turned out I could've been fine with a smaller thinner board, waves were pretty peaky and hollow, but still the Brewski is great because I could catch most anything, no joke I probably got about 50 waves. Mostly sat off the premier peak and for the most part had my choice of waves at the second peak, which served up a mix of longer rights and real fast lefts as well, plenty to keep me grinning and giving kooky thumbs ups and shakas and whatever else after every notable wave to Ramin. A super fun session I'm still feeling good about it now. And my sunburn isn't even that bad. What a day!

Friday, April 4, 2008

Session 53 - April 3 - MT

Thursday April 3, 6:15-8:00 PM, 6'8 KS + a couple on Ramin's pink, flowery, peace and love funboard

While we didn't find the clean, wide open walled up faces I was hoping for on this session, it wasn't a total wash. Managed to get some decent fun ones and just getting in the water is always worth the drive...always good to have some friendly faces join ya as well. Ramin made the trip and just so happened to pull right behind me on HW1 as we were driving, now that was pretty impressive. What timing! On the drive past, Rockaway actually might've worked out pretty good but I had my heart set on Montara, so we kept going the additional 10 minutes...came around the bend though and wasn't overjoyed with what I saw. Pretty crossed up, sectiony lumpy surf out there, a few guys on it near the middle of the beach, didn't look like anybody on the south end where I was thinking I'd go...pulled into the middle lot and made the most of what we could get. I've been spoiled rotten by a good Santa Cruz winter season -- becoming a bit of a wave snob -- but man the surf is just so good down there it's impossible not to get a little stuck up when it comes to wave quality. I think I'll have to lower my standards a bit though, as we continue to progress from winter to spring...looking back on it now, winter was (is?) pretty sweet.

Back to this session, though like I said surf pretty funky, waves just weren't really cooperating much, on several I actually started out thinking it was gonna be a right, but then found myself going left instead as the wave was just all mixed up...oh well. Weekend surf forecast is not looking super stellar, but I'll get out anyways and find something -- not gonna have another surfless weekend, that's definitely not happening.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

14 sec

So we've got a bit of a bump, confirmed south swellage filling in a little more, so surf is on again for tonight...will hit up Montara this time around and hopefully have a few friends in the water with me as well. Work estimated time of departure 5 PM, hopefully in the water 6PM.

Swell Height:
5 ft holding

Swell Directions:
Most energy from WSW(247), with NW(326) and WNW(286)

Swell Period:
14 sec increasing

Which gives me a good excuse to post THIS:

Which Joel sent me today. In responsible blogging form I always attribute my sources -- he found the cartoon on the following surf blog:

Which I have to highlight even more as a born and bred Oregonian myself, good stuff there. Unlike those surf-starved Oregonians though, for me the California transplant a 14 second period isn't really that big of a deal, who cares, but for those's huge. Lunch at mom's will have to wait!

Also a thank you as always to's great StokeConsole, my go-to online resource for San Mateo county surf conditions.

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

Session 52 - April 2 - OB

Wednesday April 2, 6-8, 6'8 KS

Flatness was the name of the game this morning, but surf picked up some throughout the day, at least enough to the point that a surf quest was in order. It'd be an entire week since my last session. That's a pretty long layoff ever since this 150 session goal thing got started...I was ready to go, whenever and wherever. As I was able to recruit one surf buddy to join me, decided to go to Ocean Beach and try things out there. It's also the most likely place to always have waves -- although another friend did let me know that Montara could've been working as well. I'll have to check with Manabu and see how his session was. But anyways, back to OB, Colin lives a block or two from the ocean there in the Sunset, 46th and Judah, and so I met at his place, suited up, and we walked down to "the beach". Urban surfing at its finest, it was pretty fun and a lot different from my Santa Cruz surf for surf itself, nothing great but there were waves to be had, normal OB style though, tough to stay in position, find the right spot, no shortage of waves that looked makeable but they were always about 50 feet from where I was matter where I was at. We also actually drifted pretty far north, current pulling us that way, to the point we went in and walked back down the beach maybe a quarter/half mile to get back to where we started...pretty crossed up, mixed up surf out there, as I guess is typical. But it was fun to go to a new spot and I'm sure I'll be joining Colin for more OB sessions as this spring/summer progresses. Especially if I can use the shower at his place afterwards which is pretty awesome, they recently remodeled their bathroom and the shower is pretty sweet.

Tuesday, April 1, 2008


When you spend as much time on the internet as I do (entirely too much) you get to read a lot about the debate between locally made, hand shaped, more traditional surfboards vs the influx of mass-produced, foreign made "pop-outs". Lots of outcry against the, mass-produced, where's the soul in that, putting your local shaper out of business...I'm not going to get into it and go on and on but I do like to support the local custom guys. I'm glad not to own any pop-outs. Not that I don't think they don't have their place, but when you have the choice and the knowledge, I'd just rather get something made locally or made by hand, the traditional way. Plus it's not like I'm buying new boards or anything -- local and used suits me juuuuust fine thank you very much.

Anyways point of this post was here's a list I found tonight of all the different (and always expanding) companies making pop-outs. Now you know. And knowing is half the battle.

Taken from this blog here, where you can read more about it if you feel so inclined.