Saturday Feb 9, 8-10, SC beachbreak, 6'8 Taylor
Wow. Not much more needs to be said about this session, impressive on all counts, waves looking like shots from the surf mags, head and a half arm straight up cavernous barrels, pure glass, sunshine and not a cloud in the bright blue sky. Mind you it wasn't me in those surf mag barrels, but a few others were making it look easy. And I got some good ones for me too. I have Paul from work to thank for getting me out of my bed, he showed up and knocked on my door at 7:30 after driving over the hill. Thanks Paul, I owe ya. Good to have somebody to surf with out there, Paul has spent a lot of time in the water and it shows. Back to the surf -- this was finally a real opportunity for the 6'8 Taylor to shine. This kind of stuff is what that board is all about! First wave of the day came to me right as soon as we paddled out...and I wound up dropping in on the only other guy out at the time. He was in pretty deep and I guess I thought he wasn't gonna catch up to me, but he did, noticed he was there behind me as soon as I had made the drop and established myself, and woulda pulled out and given him his rightful wave but he pulled out behind me...and so I got to keep going on the longest wave of the session. Beach break style out there, so waves were a lot faster and closing out more than the points, but this one held up best of any. I made a point to paddle right back out to the guy and apologize -- luckily he was cool about it, I think he'd already caught so many waves that morning by himself he didn't mind a little company. Throughout our session a few more guys joined our spot, but at most never more than 6 or so...there were double overhead bombs coming through on the outside. I let the other guys get those, plenty happy myself with the head and a half mini bombs Paul and I could get a bit further inside. Did mean we took a couple sets on the head though, I got washed all the way in once and was gonna call it good but Paul got me back out for a couple more...good call.
Was the kind of session that had me talking about it to Selin for 3 hours afterwards. Not that I caught a ton of waves, maybe got 5 or 6, but just how beautiful the day was, how fast and nice those waves were, how my surfing is progressing and I can actually catch some of those fast, hollow, beach break bombs, backside no less. Selin is always a gracious listener, which is much appreciated.
Absolutely beautiful day in Santa Cruz, and a great way to start it.
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