session 18 - Feb 13 - LM

Wednesday, Feb 13 - 7:45-8:30 am, 6'8 Taylor

Well I'll not waste a lot of time posting about this session. In fact, I'll let my friend Manabu's words do the talking -- he often has a good way of putting things:

"Just out at LM. If catching waves is your goal. Don't even try today here."

His postsession report on Stokemasters. Very concise, very true. Ocean was a mess, plus the low tide not helping us at all, one closeout after the other, with no breaks of any kind in between. It wasn't the size or anything that turned us back to the beach after 40 minutes of unsuccessful attempts at paddling out, more just the disorganized mess...the kind of morning where one duckdive immediately follows the other and then you come up again for air only to instantly have another wall of whitewater headed at you...which by this point, it's just like oh hell, and a half assed duck dive attempt and you're back where you were 5 minutes ago. Mind you I have no doubt we both could've made it outside if we'd really kept at it and dug deep within the inner paddle reserve strength tank, but it wasn't like there was much of a reward awaiting out there either...really not a surf day but as I had made the drive and was there at the beach and a little exercise never hurt anybody, we went for it. Tomorrow will do Santa Cruz, which I'm entirely sure will yield significantly better results.