Friday June 27, 7-9AM, 6'6 quad
Fun session? Frustrating session? It seems like it should have been fun, but, i think in the end I'll have to call this one frustrating...it started out fun enough, pretty small and gutless waves but Ramin was out there with me and there wasn't a mob on it quite yet and we actually each got a lot of little small waves in the first 40 minutes or so, was shaping up to be a good session with the allure of improving conditions as the tide went out a bit more, but...it actually kind of went downhill from there! Ramin caught one real nice racer that looked good, and then after that, it just shut off, and I was shut out waveless for probably a good 30 minutes, which is when the cold shivers set in, and then when sets did come I was either not in position or somehow winding up too far inside so just having to duckdive and paddle...and yeah, more than anything, I just didn't surf all that well this morning! Had some waves lined up that coulda been decent but I for some reason was finding every way possible to kook out on them, falling forward, backward, sideways, every which way you can imagine...oh well, some days you just don't have it! Crazyness I thought I was getting good out there. :) I'm blaming it on the small gutless waves, I only surf overhead barrels! Stupid linda mar!
Haha all things said it is ALWAYS a great start to the morning to be at the beach and get some exercise and a nice cold pacific ocean wake up alarm, and conditions this morning were actually pretty nice, real smooth, no wind, but it was crowded and as you know by now the waves were just really weak. Maybe should've paddled to the north end of the beach -- and joined some of my fellow bloggers who were out in force this morning, Manabu, Ren, Cynthia, the whole crew was on it this AM! Nice work folks...
On to the weekend! There is the potential of good surf on the way, we'll keep our fingers crossed. Have a good Friday....
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1 comment:
I dunno, you looked pretty good on one wave I saw! You're just too modest :-)
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