Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Session 91 - June 15 - 38th

Sunday June 15, 2-3:30 PM, 9'6 FSC

My intent on this Sunday day was to go back to yesterday's spot, but I didn't get my act together until too late in the day and didn't have enough time to make the drive and be back over the hill in time for dinner w/ Selin and some friends. So, hard life, I had to just go surf perfect waves in front of my house instead...albeit more crowded perfect waves...can't have it all I guess. Still do OK out there, caught some good ones from far outside, going right is pretty ridiculous w/ the crowds about guaranteed 3-10 dropins, so focused on the lefts (and why wouldn't I, the goofyfoot I am) which were working pretty well, fun waves. Quick shower and on the road and just in time for dinner.

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