Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Session 97 - June 23 - LM

Monday June 23, 6:45-8PM, 6'6 quad

I was desperate to make this into a surf day. So despite forecasts and pretty much experience and knowledge telling me to the contrary, I packed the car, left the office, and headed west until I could go west no more, final destination Linda Mar, surf situation onshore and sloppy.

But I was there. And it wasn't a Complete wash -- I've surfed out there worse before. Much worse. In fact I was actually able to track down a semi somewhat consistent left breaking a bit north of the bathrooms and so I stayed there and milked it for all I could, sharing it with 2 other guys in the general vicinity. There were maybe 10 or so guys total out across the whole beach. Not really a surf day.

But it was a long Monday at work and I wanted to surf. So that's what I did.

My last wave was actually pretty good, 2 little turns and connected the (very sectiony) outside section with the inside section which walled up pretty nice and allowed me to get some speed and a decent hit off the lip to end it. After that I was good -- could confidently leave and call it a session w/o the nagging thought of maybe there is a better wave out there I really should go back, because, I think that was about as good as it was gonna get.

Surfed the quad better than I have previously. Benefits of going left.

No comments: