session 84 - June 6 - 2nd peak

Friday June 6, 6:45-7:45 PM, 9'0 Becker

Sessions have been kinda few and far between of late, so when I got home tonight and saw some halfway decent waves breaking out there and had an hour of time before dinner with mom and the sis, I was on it quick. Refreshing just to get out in the water, which happens to be a really great temperature right now, warmed up a lot since early spring when it was a dang icebox. Feels good now. As for the surf it wasn't anything stellar but it was definitely worth an hour of my time...my last wave was good, paddled into the wave going left, straightened out on the drop, and then made probably one of my best ever longboard bottom turns of all time, still kinda slow mind you but swung that thing around and cranked it, right back up the face of the wave, pretty solid in my opinion...felt good to me! I'll often be so slow on that bottom turn, not get it around fast enough, and kind of stall out for a second in front of the wave...more beginner kook style than seasoned longboard veteran...this was a brief foray into more experienced longboarder territory...and it felt good, will have to try more of it again soon.

My alarm is set for 5:30 am...in hopes of getting a morning surf in before the worst of the negative low tide and then the wind hit...what do you think the odds of me actually getting out of bed? Gotta say I'm not even liking them myself, wow, it's 1:22 AM already? Yeah we'll say 20% chance of getting out of bed at 5:30 am. But...you never know. Anything can happen!

Update: I didn't get out of bed.