It had been way too long since my last surf, so Manabu and I just decided to go for it this morning. Our original destination Linda Mar was actually completely closed, which was unfortunate. Something about oil being found on the beach is what Manabu said, although I'm sure there was a lot of other unsavory things/crap floating in the water as well...but Oil, that's bad. I wonder where it came from and hope it is nothing too serious. So, we figured we'd keep on driving and maybe go to Montara. Montara was big and messy. We actually got out and suited up there, thinking we'd go anyways, but upon further inspection it just wasn't looking good, so we bailed on it, and drove further. Maybe the jetty will work, we thought. So, drove to the Jetty. And it wasn't working either. Small mixed up completely punchless surf coming through in a complete mess. OK, this isn't looking good, so last shot we'll go to Dunes and just get wet. Pulled into Dunes, it wasn't really working either, but at this point it was go time no matter what, so we went in. Water was brown and kind of stinky, and surf just wasn't doing it. No shape at all. Caught a couple whitewater reforms, one actually presented me with a little bit of something, but it was a lost session from the start. Stayed out for about 40 minutes and headed in, already very much looking forward to a warm clean shower back at work.
I used my new 6'8 Taylor. Bummer of a session to break it in with, couldn't get much of a feel for the board but I think it'll be good. Easy to duckdive at least!
Hoping to surf tomorrow at SC, although just got word this oil situation might have even made it's way down there as well...will have to wait and see what I can find out. What a mess!
Update! Now with pictures. Manabu has a little wrist cam thing he plays around with, took a few during our session, so now our forgettable junky surf experience will be immortalized in imagery for all eternity! Hooray!
This session was actually reminiscent of many India sessions. Outside of some magical moments, I saw similar junk washing machine conditions in far too many of my efforts to surf over there...plus the water was the same shade of brown. (Although quite a bit warmer I will add)
And this last one is a nice shot of my butt. Hello! It does illustrate something I think is sad but true, I'm still kind of kooky looking on my initial popup. I get up way bent over completely at the waist. I need to do a better job POPPING up, getting my feet centered underneath me and body weight balanced, not this bent over 90 degree angle butt-sticking out business evidenced here. Something to work on! (Add it to the list...)Thanks for the pics Manabu! (Taken from M's own surf weblog)
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