January 1, afternoon, PP, 6'9 Randy French
Already wrote about this quickly 2 posts ago, but to recap. Went out at a spot I don't know the name of but it's one of those little inside coves around first peak at PP. I wonder what it is called, will have to figure that out. Surf was really small and really hardly breaking anywhere at all, but occasionally (and I mean very occasionally) a little waist high or so set came through. I caught 3 waves. None of them were any good. And as already stated as well, I dinged the nose of the leaf (the 6'9 Randy French surftech w/ the monster fin) on the paddle out. Probably that was the best set of the day, and I had to duckdive about the only wave that needed to be duckdived all session, and in pushing the nose under I hit reef/rock down below and put a nice ding on the nose. Bleh, what a start! But again I'm overdue for a repair session anyways.
OK, so 2008 is off and runnin', (dings and poor first sessions aside) it feels like it's gonna be a good year to me!!!! Best year ever!
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