Monday, January 7, 2008

Session 2 - January 6 - Indicators & on

January 6, 2 to 3:30, Lane, Brewer 7'0

Finally got 2008 surf session #2 yesterday! After the huge storm, things calmed down a bit on Sunday and a window of opportunity opened up. Still pretty stormy and messy conditions out there, but definitely doable and swell wasn't too huge. Most of PP was a mess (only 2 guys out) and Hook wasn't much better, so I drove all over and checked a lot of spots...saw the biggest group (maybe 8 or so rippers) out at some spot I also don't know the name of a little bit west of 26th ave beach break, where it was peaking up semi consistent off some rock points. Didn't look all that fun to me so kept going. Best spot turned out to be Steamer Lane (well really more like Indicators all the way to outside Cowells) and there were about 15 or so guys out there. I say out there but it was really more like a revolving door of a lineup as there was a heck of a current pushing you towards Cowells so staying in any sort of lineup was pretty much impossible -- you had to paddle like hell to stay in any kind of position. So what happens is most people (including myself) just give up on any kind of lineup altogether, and just go with the flow catching waves (or one really long wave in my case) along the way taking you all the way back to that middle staircase or Cowell's. You then get out there and walk back to Steamers and repeat the process all over again. I did this twice. Pretty tiring, but fun, conditions far from great but still very worthwhile. Got one long wave as mentioned above that held up practically all the way to (way) outside cowells. Most guys probably woulda pulled out of it to start paddling back but I chose to keep going, why not, I like long waves. Got a few turns and am trying to cutback with more speed and force. Good to be out there.

No comments: