Session 8 - January 20 - 2nd Peak

Jan 20, 2nd Peak, 2-4 pm - 7'6 Kingfish

Quick update on this one, as work is calling my name -- that red light on my phone is staring at me, indicating I have a message to check -- red light of doom...

In my ongoing quest to never surf the same board more than 3 times in a row I took out the ol' 7'6 ET Surf Kingfish Sunday afternoon. Paddled out at 38th but very quickly made my way over to the much more consistent and much more better 2nd peak. Again, not too crowded, and on this board, I can really catch a lot of waves. So I surfed my way over to that section picking off a couple fun ones on the way as they came to me -- got to love winter time, when those chest high waves can come through uncontested for, knowing there's another one coming not too long behind it...waves that 15 people would be paddling like mad for in the summer going unnoticed. So got a few of those to warm up. Then paddled out to furthest out 2nd peak and waited for some good ones. Got one good one, went back out. I'm pretty courteous with my positioning and don't sit inside of somebody if they've been waiting longer, probably more so than I need to be, but it's annoying when people paddle right around you and take your wave. So I was doing that and a wave peaked up in front of me and this other guy who had position on me, he turned to start going for it but then saw me and said you go, go, so, Go i went! Thanks buddy! It was a great wave. It's fun out there because it's like every wave I get is an opportunity to be the best wave of my life. I have so many more options in my surfing than ever before, it's really captivating, addicting...after getting a good one like that I'm frothing (to use a surf term) for more, non stop. Feed the beast!

OK that red light is still staring at me, time to get to work. Rainy cold weather started yesterday MLK day, waste of a solid Monday off work unfortunately as surf was crap as well. And is supposed to remain rainy and junky all week, but will do what I can to get a surf in when best possible.

Oh also got a new board this weekend! (New to me). 6'8 Taylor! It is awesome. Although I haven't surfed it yet, but it sure looks awesome in my living room. I'm a surfboard detective always sniffing out the best deals! (a broke surfboard detective! I aim to sell a board or 2 this week.)

UPDATE! Added a picture of the new board. Board just feels good -- I'm excited to use it. Bought it from a maybe 50 year old SC local who knows Pat Taylor and had it shaped...got a new one shaped with same dims and hence selling this one. 6'8 x 20.5 x 2 5/8. It's been used, but used carefully -- still in awesome shape, a great deal at $180...guy said it was his favorite board on recent Indo trips, hopefully some of that barrel mojo will rub off on little ol' me!