Session 120 - Aug 15 - central america

Friday Aug 15, 6´2 KS, 6´8 Taylor

Day uno! Que buenas. It is nice here. After an all night flight, 1 am to 7.30 am or so, and then a hour or so taxi ride (very overly priced taxi ride -- ¨the puente was out¨ -- (it actually was though, confirmed by other travelers who came that way), I got to my destination number 1. I didn´t have anywhere to stay lined up, but Jose a local who had just finished his session saw me standing there after the taxi dropped me off and walked me over to where I am now staying: La Guitarra, it´s a great place. Cheap and basic and right in front of the ocean and what more could you ask for? There is even free internet in the lobby, on 2 PCs. It is much faster internet than India. There are not a ton of American tourists here and I like that. Anyways Jose thanks for the tip. $14 for my room. When I got here the surf was really blown out, so I didn´t get in right away. Instead I used the afternoon to fix 2 dings on the Taylor from the airlines (even with my meticulous packing!), to walk around a bit, and to start my book number one for the trip (Elmore Leonard something, easy entertaining read). I paddled out a bit later in the day when wind had calmed a bit, but it was still really mixed up and tough to figure out the surf. I was joined by just one other gringo in the water...the locals knew better. I can´t say my first session was that notable, I struggled to figure out a new break and the mixed up conditions, but the water was warm and the scenery beautiful. After coming in and getting some food ($8 arroz con calamare, $2 for a really big beer...wow hot weather, lots of sunshine, and lots of surfing plus a really big beer = I´m going to fall asleep). So I came back to my room and got in the hammock out front and tried to read some more but it wasn´t long before it was lights out, had a nice little nap there...woke up and it was already dusk, so grabbed the surfboard and paddled back out at the beachbreak just in front for about 45 minutes of sunset session. After that went and had a dinner at the restaurant at the point ($5 club sandwich) and then it was time for bed, with hope of clean glassy surf awaiting in the morning.