Sunday Aug 3, 1:30-4, 6'8 Taylor
Note to self: Always make sure I have a wetsuit in the car.
We had a bit of a surf mob out today, which was fun as we made the most of the situation, and for the most part had the break to ourselves. What's the matter, the sponsored pros don't like to make the drive for 2-3 ft closeouts? Was a nice sunny day at the beach and we all had a good time hanging out and taking in some sun and some surf.
I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking, there were surf blog photographers all over the place -- everybody is doing it!
Yes I only posted photos of myself. Call me vain if you want. And yes I see now I'm way too slow in these pictures -- I need to get faster. Why am I trying to go straight to shore in this picture here on the left? I should already be parallel w/ the face, not perpendicular, get with it kook! (What good are surfblog pictures after all if you can't critique them?)And also, for the record, Colin did call "party wave" on the wave you see me dropping in on. I'd never stuff Colin otherwise, never!
Thank you to Colin and Joan for the pictures.
In other news, FLATNESS is the name of the game today (and probably the rest of the week), but maybe tomorrow morning I'll throw the 8'6 in the car and see what I can find up north. And, we got a last minute campsite for Friday night at Manresa (yes, about 15 minutes from my house, my walls, and my big comfy bed but it's for the experience) so that should be fun to dust off my tent and sleeping bag.
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3 comments:
What do you mean - "straight to shore?" You did a rail-digging bottom turn that dropped you crouching straight into that little tube - don't you remember?
Oh yeah, you're absolutely right, Ramin...I don't know what I was thinking.
Haha, no actually, I probably did turn up into that, but...having it in picture form is a good measuring stick. There's no reason at all I should be so perpendicular at any point on that wave...no wonder I couldn't keep up. At the point that photo is taken I should already be at a 45 degree angle or so moving along the face...especially on this one as I'm not even forced to be going backside like I am 90% of the time!!!!! So, something to note and work on.
Progress! (and obsessive-compulsiveness!!!!)
i don't think you have any issues going down the line, you pulled into that party wave closeout with style ;) speaking of drop tech though, I have a tendency to be too conservative on my drops and not milk enough speed from my bottom turn. i've been trying to practice initiating my bottom turn a second later than normal so I have some more speed...
in any case, it's fun to have some pics to reference, see what you actually look like out there. we'll have to shoot some video if we really want to do some honest style critique...i'm afraid to see how sloppy i actually surf on video!
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