Monday, August 11, 2008

Session 115 - Aug 9 - 38th


Sat Aug 9, 2-3 pm, 8'6 Pariah

Yosuke has an amazing camera. And an even amazinger lens! Talk about shutterbug that guy has some quality gear! (and it also doesn't hurt he has a pretty good eye as well -- that matters too. A little). I think I'll have to hire him as my surf photog one of these days...

After camping on Friday night at Manresa St Beach (camping 15 minutes from home, X-TREME!) Yos and Bory came over and made a visit to Lazy Town. After relaxing and getting some fish tacos (with onions) and also a Moondoggie, I convinced Yosuke to join me for a quick surf session out at 38th. We lugged the boards and some chairs and beach gear down to our favorite rock outcropping seating area and threw Yosuke into the fire. He handled it like a champ, in fact he did real well as I neglected to wait until a lull in the set to commence our paddle out so for his very first time ever on a surfboard he was getting pummeled by an incoming set. Yes, nevermind the fact that the waves were about 2 feet at most, it was the man's 1st time! But, unlike some first timers, he actually did quite well and made it thru the whitewater and held on to his board the whole time...not sending the board flying every which way, avoiding the classic kook maneuver and not making me any more enemies at my home break. Well done. Once out however it proved a little bit of a challenge to get a wave, as it was Saturday afternoon at 38th on a small, sunny day after all...so everybody is pretty close together in the main take off area and not a whole lot of chance to spread out and get an uncrowded place for him to give it a go. But we paddled around a lot, watched some people, I caught some waves, and in the end Yosuke did actually catch one wave and surfed it in. He didn't quite get to his feet, but it was a good start to a promising surf career. (or maybe he should just stick to surf-photography...I'll let him make the call).

Fun to have visitors as always and I think they enjoyed their day, come back any time.




2 comments:

Yosuke Yamamoto said...

woohoo! So I can claim to being a "surfer" now? It was a lot of fun to be down in Santa cruz with you guys. It felt like a mini vacation. Yos

Nic said...

surfs up surfer dude, yea bro!