Session 62 - April 16 - 1st/2nd peak

Wednesday April 16, 7 - 9 am, 9'0 Becker

Fun morning session, at my beloved home break. I'm a day late on this post, but Joel was saying this morning that Pleasure Pt is a pretty nice break to call your home break, as he was paddling back out after yet another long, perfect peeling chest high wave...and I got to say he's absolutely right. It is an amazing place to call home, I live a good life. I woke up around 6:30 to the sunshine pouring in through the windows, rolled out of bed, threw on some pants and a sweatshirt, walked outside and down the street to check the surf, looked good, back home, dragged Joel off the couch, suited up and we were in the water. Not much crowd at all, plenty of waves, no better way to start the day.

This was the opportunity I was looking for to test the new board (9'0 Becker Mike Gee X), and it was pretty sweet. Real responsive, just as it's designed to be, great addition to have that board, it's pretty much the prototype for good 2nd peak waves -- I'm giving up some paddling power but what I gain in maneuverability and performance offsets that (and then some). I'm surfing better as well, this whole blog thing and 150 session goal is pretty great actually, it gives me something to really track and see my progress. I felt I did a better job this morning of actually working WITH the wave, taking what I'm given to make for some long, fast, fun rides. Better job of cutting up and down the wave when I need to, getting high when I need speed, cutting down low to maneuver around a section or two, I actually was able to make a few waves I know I wouldn't have been able to just a short time ago. And that's great, progress.

Took out the digicam but didn't really try much to get any photos, more focused on getting waves than photos. I have a lot of respect for those surf photographers who have the discipline to shoot and not surf...tough line of work! Anyways what you see here is my best sequence of the day, Joel paddling into a fun looking roller. I need a better vantage point, nice looking back of a wave, huh?