Session 54 - April 5 - the yo

Saturday April 5, 1:30 - 5:30, 7'0 Brewer

Wow! What an amazing session. So my friend Ramin has been talking my ear off about this sick surf spot we got to go check out, you got to go, so sick, so fun, so perfect, so epic, so gnar gnar, so this so that on and on and on and on...so today we met up there and I had my first session. And all I can say is thanks buddy you weren't lying! That was pretty incredible, great session. As a general rule, if a surf session lasts for nearly 4 hours, there's got to be something pretty damn good about it...no exception here. Fun peaked up rights and also some racetrack lefts, but what was just so amazing about it was how crappy it was everywhere else. Blown out and not much swell at all the spots I checked up and down the coast. Yet in the middle of it all, here we were scoring some great rides, even some barrels thrown in the mix (although I didn't make it out of any, but then again, not many people were -- one to be exact that I saw)...Anyways it was pretty sweet. Needless to say I'll be back out there again I'm sure many more times.

As for my surf, I took out the 7'0 Brewer, which we all know is a pretty great board, my time-tested travel companion, that board has been around the world and back, and my go-to stick when I don't really know what kind of surf to expect. Turned out I could've been fine with a smaller thinner board, waves were pretty peaky and hollow, but still the Brewski is great because I could catch most anything, no joke I probably got about 50 waves. Mostly sat off the premier peak and for the most part had my choice of waves at the second peak, which served up a mix of longer rights and real fast lefts as well, plenty to keep me grinning and giving kooky thumbs ups and shakas and whatever else after every notable wave to Ramin. A super fun session I'm still feeling good about it now. And my sunburn isn't even that bad. What a day!