Session 71 - April May 3 - 38th

Saturday May 3, 12:30-3:30, 9'0 Becker

About to head out for session #72 I think but I'll get this done with quick. Surf still pretty good today, lazy in the morning but got out there with Joel around 12 something. Hung out at 38th as that is a fun wave when it's working, snagged some fun ones. One real long one picked up from farthest out 38th, nearly halfway to 2nd peak practically and made it past a couple sections at the start to surf it all the way in past O'Neill's. Good, fun, wave, my best version of noseriding too -- both feet about in the middle of the Becker symbol, that's about 8 inches or so from the very tip I'd guesstimate. Should've just gone all the way. Next time. Note to self, don't let noseriding attempts turn into bad surfing. There's a time for a walk to the nose but also a time for a cutback or turn, walking forward is not the answer for all that ails you...I write this because on one wave I found myself trying to walk up there and I shouldn't have been, should have actually cut back towards the curl. Untimely noseride attempts, that's just plain kooky.

Joel came out but his groin is hurt. He can't even stand up, old man. Sucks for him, hopefully that heals up one of these days. He kneeboarded a couple and called it a day.

Session #72 begins now, later bros!