Friday May 2, 6:30-8:30, 6'6 quad
As already mentioned, again a bit of a whomping at surf destination #1 for the morning, swell was peaking even more than night before so sets were really stacking up pretty big. I'm terrible when it comes to estimating wave sizes, and for what it's worth, I actually tend to underestimate rather than overestimate, just to let you know...I don't know I'd call it head and a half I guess on the big ones. Easy. So I went back to the same spot as the night before and threw myself into the inferno again for round #2. (Side note, it gets really light really early, can surf a long time before work...trick is just finding a way to drag myself out of bed that early!). I caught a couple good lefts pretty quickly, but after botching my take off on one pretty solid right -- my hand slipped as I was popping up -- I wasn't really feeling it that early in the morning so I went in. Still early so made stop #2, at the Hook, which I know the wave isn't really going to threaten me, but the crowd probably will. Sitting a bit inside though I still manage to catch a bunch of waves out there, so had some fun. Such a fast wave, plus I'm really slow backside, have a hard time keeping up with the wave...but caught a few I was able to stay in front of pretty nice. On a long lull called it good and paddled in, drove home, showered, and off to work. Friday!
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