Thurs May 29, 7 - 8:15 PM, 9'6 FSC
Surf not that exhilarating and tide high, but it's been a while and a high tide slow mush session is better than no session at all. Took the longboard out and down the ladder and joined maybe 10 or so others who were out...actually managed to pick up some decent waves to start out, every now and then a set would come with some nice long waist to chest high shoulders, but kind of few and far between. I was rusty after no surf for a week, but shook that off after blowing it on my first wave. Came in after I made the decision to go sit further outside and wait for a good one, good one never came so was sitting outside for about 20 minutes with nothing, so went back inside caught one and rode it as far as I possibly could and up and out the stairs. Back home in time to watch the last 8 minutes of Lakeshow-Spurs...
Spurs looked old...from Manu's bald head to Duncan's overall general malaise that he plays the game with, effective but slow, but getting slower...(although he did get a triple double)...Parker makes some impressive plays though. Not enough, not against Kobe and crew. Sasha Vujacic -- what a punk -- shooting that last second three...no class. I hope Phil Jackson benches him for that...or at least chews him out real good. Say what you want about the Spurs, but certainly no Spur would've taken that shot. Garbage.
Go Celtics.
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Blogroll
Back from Chicago, back to work. Busy busy busy, I've managed to get myself actually really busy here at work over the last month and a half or so, you get what you ask for I guess, and I certainly put my name out there and volunteered to be the main point of contact for a bunch of various things -- they're all coming to me now. Busy and involved though beats bored and detached, gotta say.
Anyways not a whole lot of time for Horace posts, but I'll always squeeze 'em in there when I can. Such as now.
If you've ever read any of my prior posts, you'll know I read a lot of surf blogs (but not at work. Anymore). In general, surf blogs run a wide range from complete and total waste of time, never updated, nearly illiterate junk to moderately interesting to thoroughly compelling. My most recent surf blog discovery fall firmly into that final category -- it's got to be by far the most entertaining, well written, and overall plain enjoyable piece of surf bloggingship I've ever come across. I've spent the last two post-work web-surfing on the couch at home sessions reading every single one of the posts from the archives, and so far I've only just now managed to get through 2004...still a lot of reading to be done:
http://colparker.blogspot.com
I really enjoy the stories, and I've got to say I'm pretty much spot on in agreement with him on most of his perspectives and views on surf culture, locals, aggro rippers, fashion, etc etc. I also admire that he really lets it rip on his blog -- he'll say what he wants, name names, whatever. I respect that -- not afraid -- and it makes for some really entertaining reads. Plus he's originally from Palo Alto, just up the road from where I spend my work week, and appears to have some sort of involvement in the tech industry, so points for that too. Anyways -- good writing, good surf stories, good blog. I hope you enjoy.
If you only have time to read one (two) posts, and have an interest in Bali or just general third world international (surf) travel, start with the posts here -- 'Fear and loathing in Bali' Part I & II. Great stuff. The rest of the posts don't disappoint either...read them too.
Surf pretty flat of late but I'm anxious to get in the water, so making a SC drive tonight to see what I can hunt down...usually can find something. If not, it's ding-repair time.
Anyways not a whole lot of time for Horace posts, but I'll always squeeze 'em in there when I can. Such as now.
If you've ever read any of my prior posts, you'll know I read a lot of surf blogs (but not at work. Anymore). In general, surf blogs run a wide range from complete and total waste of time, never updated, nearly illiterate junk to moderately interesting to thoroughly compelling. My most recent surf blog discovery fall firmly into that final category -- it's got to be by far the most entertaining, well written, and overall plain enjoyable piece of surf bloggingship I've ever come across. I've spent the last two post-work web-surfing on the couch at home sessions reading every single one of the posts from the archives, and so far I've only just now managed to get through 2004...still a lot of reading to be done:
http://colparker.blogspot.com
I really enjoy the stories, and I've got to say I'm pretty much spot on in agreement with him on most of his perspectives and views on surf culture, locals, aggro rippers, fashion, etc etc. I also admire that he really lets it rip on his blog -- he'll say what he wants, name names, whatever. I respect that -- not afraid -- and it makes for some really entertaining reads. Plus he's originally from Palo Alto, just up the road from where I spend my work week, and appears to have some sort of involvement in the tech industry, so points for that too. Anyways -- good writing, good surf stories, good blog. I hope you enjoy.
If you only have time to read one (two) posts, and have an interest in Bali or just general third world international (surf) travel, start with the posts here -- 'Fear and loathing in Bali' Part I & II. Great stuff. The rest of the posts don't disappoint either...read them too.
Surf pretty flat of late but I'm anxious to get in the water, so making a SC drive tonight to see what I can hunt down...usually can find something. If not, it's ding-repair time.
Friday, May 23, 2008
In the heartland
Another blow to my surf career is long trips to Chicago. I'm here in the center of the windy city now, got here last night and will be here until Tuesday night. Wedding for one of Selin's friends.
Fun visit though, first time here so I'm on my way out to see the sights! Got things started right last night with a HUGE chicago style hot dog. Good stuff!
Fun visit though, first time here so I'm on my way out to see the sights! Got things started right last night with a HUGE chicago style hot dog. Good stuff!
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Dude.
My surf career took a huge hit yesterday. Huge. Freakin' enormously gynormous huge, crushing blow...
Despite all my efforts, energy, and dedication to the contrary, my actual real career still consists of a laptop computer, a telephone, and a long commute over the hill. And it is that actual real career that still pays the bills. So, sadly, I do have to devote some consideration to it from time to time...yesterday was one of those times.
Thanks to my diligence towards my job, I'm now a proud participant in a DAILY 9:30 AM strategy review meeting with some of the key folks on my product. It's probably good for me to get involved in this, get some exposure and lend my input as well, but seriously, man, WHAT IS GOING TO HAPPEN TO MY MORNING SURFS???? Now I know a lot of you are probably reading this and thinking to yourself, what the hell, what kind of spoiled idiot are you, 9:30 AM start of work? And yes I hear you, I absolutely realize 9:30 AM is far from the crack of dawn when it comes to getting your work day started. But, I do have the luxury of working for a company that lets me be pretty flexible in my hours -- now I've never taken complete advantage of this, but on those mornings when I do surf and when the surf is really good, I'll occasionally stroll in to the office around 10 or 10:15. I can kiss those days goodbye! Now I'm firmly on the clock, got to be checking my watch every 10 minutes, stressing the commute, stressing getting that last wave in, stressing stressing stressing...man seriously I'm not excited about this. Not one bit.
Dang responsibility!
(footnotes:
- this would be no big deal if it was say, 2 times a week. No problem. Every day though? ugh.
- I'll say it again, 9:30 is far from early. I realize that. I've just had a pretty nice flexible schedule now for a long time...and now I don't. I'm just trying to deal with that right now. Surfblog venting. Bear with me.
- And for what it's worth, I do come in early on non-surf days. And stay late on surf-days. And do a (reasonably) good job.
- the commute took an extra 20 minutes this morning due to my new required arrival time. again, UGH.
- thanks for listening.)
UPDATE: Wow! My complaining must have been heard by someone, somewhere...because these meetings are now rescheduled! We've changed the format around a bit so now only have meetings twice weekly and no longer at 9:30. Sweeeeeet! That was short-lived, I almost feel guilty now for making such a big stink of it! But not really.
Despite all my efforts, energy, and dedication to the contrary, my actual real career still consists of a laptop computer, a telephone, and a long commute over the hill. And it is that actual real career that still pays the bills. So, sadly, I do have to devote some consideration to it from time to time...yesterday was one of those times.
Thanks to my diligence towards my job, I'm now a proud participant in a DAILY 9:30 AM strategy review meeting with some of the key folks on my product. It's probably good for me to get involved in this, get some exposure and lend my input as well, but seriously, man, WHAT IS GOING TO HAPPEN TO MY MORNING SURFS???? Now I know a lot of you are probably reading this and thinking to yourself, what the hell, what kind of spoiled idiot are you, 9:30 AM start of work? And yes I hear you, I absolutely realize 9:30 AM is far from the crack of dawn when it comes to getting your work day started. But, I do have the luxury of working for a company that lets me be pretty flexible in my hours -- now I've never taken complete advantage of this, but on those mornings when I do surf and when the surf is really good, I'll occasionally stroll in to the office around 10 or 10:15. I can kiss those days goodbye! Now I'm firmly on the clock, got to be checking my watch every 10 minutes, stressing the commute, stressing getting that last wave in, stressing stressing stressing...man seriously I'm not excited about this. Not one bit.
Dang responsibility!
(footnotes:
- this would be no big deal if it was say, 2 times a week. No problem. Every day though? ugh.
- I'll say it again, 9:30 is far from early. I realize that. I've just had a pretty nice flexible schedule now for a long time...and now I don't. I'm just trying to deal with that right now. Surfblog venting. Bear with me.
- And for what it's worth, I do come in early on non-surf days. And stay late on surf-days. And do a (reasonably) good job.
- the commute took an extra 20 minutes this morning due to my new required arrival time. again, UGH.
- thanks for listening.)
UPDATE: Wow! My complaining must have been heard by someone, somewhere...because these meetings are now rescheduled! We've changed the format around a bit so now only have meetings twice weekly and no longer at 9:30. Sweeeeeet! That was short-lived, I almost feel guilty now for making such a big stink of it! But not really.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Session 80 - May 18 - 2nd Peak
Sunday May 18, 6:30-8:15 pm, 9'6 FSC
Compared to my earlier session, the water out at PP was seriously like a bathtub, spot #1 is notorious for some of the coldest water in CA. And I can see (feel) why -- freezing. But back home at bathtub little pleasure pt it was downright muggy, even as the sun was going down and the fog was coming in. Visibility rather low, water very warm. Waves, fun. Crowd, not bad. Got some good ones and one compliment after my best wave, stoked.
Speed blogging over.
Compared to my earlier session, the water out at PP was seriously like a bathtub, spot #1 is notorious for some of the coldest water in CA. And I can see (feel) why -- freezing. But back home at bathtub little pleasure pt it was downright muggy, even as the sun was going down and the fog was coming in. Visibility rather low, water very warm. Waves, fun. Crowd, not bad. Got some good ones and one compliment after my best wave, stoked.
Speed blogging over.
Session 79 - May 18 - the yo
Sunday May 18, 11:30-3 pm, 6'6 quad
Loaded the surfmobile and ventured north, took some good beachbreak drubbings, always fun. Spot not working as good as it can, as in mostly a lot of closeouts, but it got progressively better throughout the session. And at least when it's not good, it's not crowded, and everyone was friendly. Caught a couple decent waves, not able to really make any turns as I'm not fast enough to do that on that fast of a wave, but I did pitch myself into some closeout shorebreak barrels (and have the bruises to show for it) and didn't break my board in the process, so I'll take that as a success.
Loaded the surfmobile and ventured north, took some good beachbreak drubbings, always fun. Spot not working as good as it can, as in mostly a lot of closeouts, but it got progressively better throughout the session. And at least when it's not good, it's not crowded, and everyone was friendly. Caught a couple decent waves, not able to really make any turns as I'm not fast enough to do that on that fast of a wave, but I did pitch myself into some closeout shorebreak barrels (and have the bruises to show for it) and didn't break my board in the process, so I'll take that as a success.
Session 78 - May 17 - 2nd/1st Peak
Saturday May 17, 11:00 - 2 PM, 9'0 Becker
Surf still good on Saturday, should've gotten out of bed early and gone somewhere, but I didn't, lazy lazy lazy, finally was up and moving around and in the water by 11. Joel came out also, but as his groin is still hurt and surfing is not a good idea he was sporting flippers and the watercam...I haven't loaded the photos but I'll throw some up here when speedblogging isn't the main objective...Anyways surf was pretty good but there was some tension in the water. See my prior post. Waves were kind of not working like usual, in that 2nd peak wasn't really doing it's thing, was more like a combo of partway between 1st/2nd that was working the best, so there was this uneasy tense mix of longboard/shortboard in much closer proximity than you'll normally find...not just myself, noticed several unhappy verbal altercations between the two dueling schools of surfers. Plus, it was crowded. Saturday, sunshine, fair-good forecast. So I took it easy, caught lots on the inside, stayed out for longer than I thought as I was able to go pretty far in almost to 38th and still catch some more over there, without having to be on my toes all the time and dealing with the tension.
Surf still good on Saturday, should've gotten out of bed early and gone somewhere, but I didn't, lazy lazy lazy, finally was up and moving around and in the water by 11. Joel came out also, but as his groin is still hurt and surfing is not a good idea he was sporting flippers and the watercam...I haven't loaded the photos but I'll throw some up here when speedblogging isn't the main objective...Anyways surf was pretty good but there was some tension in the water. See my prior post. Waves were kind of not working like usual, in that 2nd peak wasn't really doing it's thing, was more like a combo of partway between 1st/2nd that was working the best, so there was this uneasy tense mix of longboard/shortboard in much closer proximity than you'll normally find...not just myself, noticed several unhappy verbal altercations between the two dueling schools of surfers. Plus, it was crowded. Saturday, sunshine, fair-good forecast. So I took it easy, caught lots on the inside, stayed out for longer than I thought as I was able to go pretty far in almost to 38th and still catch some more over there, without having to be on my toes all the time and dealing with the tension.
Session 77 - May 16 - LM
Friday May 16, 7 - 9 AM, 6'6 quad
SPEED BLOGGING! I was blogophobic this weekend and didn't do any updating ... so I'm gonna speed through these last couple session reports faster than some logo'd up first peak ripper upon failing to make a section on his set wave can paddle back out to berate the 2nd peak longboarder kook who got in his way and tell him to go home (no, I don't speak from personal experience...nope not at all) ... for those of you who have not had the privilege of that lovely experience, let me tell you it is really, really FAST.
So surf was pretty great on Friday probably pretty much everywhere, from what I overheard north Santa Cruz spots were absolutely firing, but I made the call to head up to Linda Mar and see what I could get at my normal San Mateo county dawn patrol beachbreak option. Met up with Brian from work and had some company out there, good stuff...surf was good although not very good but good enough. Got a fair amount of waves, best one probably a shoulder high left that held open for me for a bit enough to get two real quick mini hits off the lip, at least my best versions of such...waves were unfortunately either backing off a bit too much to get a whole lot, or just closing out on the big sets...patience and some wave selection skills still offered up some select waves to those willing to wait. Good start to the day.
(a quick note on the above 1st peak/2nd peak analogy. Yes, that did happen to me this weekend. And yes, the guy was hands down an incredible surfer, really something else to watch him do his thing...and I probably was guilty of doing a little bit too much of just that...watching his wave and as a result, not getting over the shoulder fast enough to get out of his way. I really thought he was going to cut back and there was plenty of room for that, but to my surprise he decided to take a really high line directly at me, actually coming within probably about 2 inches of the front of my board on a long arcing top turn instead of the tight cutback I expected...it was one of those situations where as the longboarder on the inside you have to decide do I paddle hard for the shoulder or do I go inside and take the whitewash...I always go to the whitewash and take the duck-dive as opposed to getting in the way, but in this scenario I felt doing that was going to put me more so in the way as I was able to get pretty far out in front of the shoulder but apparently that was the wrong decision, I think I would've been screwed basically either way..I really thought he was going to cut back...to be honest, I think a large part of the contributing factor for said ripper choosing his high line instead of the cutback was so he could make a point of coming ultra extremely close to me to illustrate his point that I was in the way and was a kook...so, OK. Point taken. My apologies for being in the way. And if it makes things any better...dude, you rip! Was a privilege to have you fly by my nose at mach speed and shred apart the rest of that wave on the way. And I'll continue to always try to make every effort to stay out of the way, as I always do. My bad.)
So far my speed blogging isn't going that well.
SPEED BLOGGING! I was blogophobic this weekend and didn't do any updating ... so I'm gonna speed through these last couple session reports faster than some logo'd up first peak ripper upon failing to make a section on his set wave can paddle back out to berate the 2nd peak longboarder kook who got in his way and tell him to go home (no, I don't speak from personal experience...nope not at all) ... for those of you who have not had the privilege of that lovely experience, let me tell you it is really, really FAST.
So surf was pretty great on Friday probably pretty much everywhere, from what I overheard north Santa Cruz spots were absolutely firing, but I made the call to head up to Linda Mar and see what I could get at my normal San Mateo county dawn patrol beachbreak option. Met up with Brian from work and had some company out there, good stuff...surf was good although not very good but good enough. Got a fair amount of waves, best one probably a shoulder high left that held open for me for a bit enough to get two real quick mini hits off the lip, at least my best versions of such...waves were unfortunately either backing off a bit too much to get a whole lot, or just closing out on the big sets...patience and some wave selection skills still offered up some select waves to those willing to wait. Good start to the day.
(a quick note on the above 1st peak/2nd peak analogy. Yes, that did happen to me this weekend. And yes, the guy was hands down an incredible surfer, really something else to watch him do his thing...and I probably was guilty of doing a little bit too much of just that...watching his wave and as a result, not getting over the shoulder fast enough to get out of his way. I really thought he was going to cut back and there was plenty of room for that, but to my surprise he decided to take a really high line directly at me, actually coming within probably about 2 inches of the front of my board on a long arcing top turn instead of the tight cutback I expected...it was one of those situations where as the longboarder on the inside you have to decide do I paddle hard for the shoulder or do I go inside and take the whitewash...I always go to the whitewash and take the duck-dive as opposed to getting in the way, but in this scenario I felt doing that was going to put me more so in the way as I was able to get pretty far out in front of the shoulder but apparently that was the wrong decision, I think I would've been screwed basically either way..I really thought he was going to cut back...to be honest, I think a large part of the contributing factor for said ripper choosing his high line instead of the cutback was so he could make a point of coming ultra extremely close to me to illustrate his point that I was in the way and was a kook...so, OK. Point taken. My apologies for being in the way. And if it makes things any better...dude, you rip! Was a privilege to have you fly by my nose at mach speed and shred apart the rest of that wave on the way. And I'll continue to always try to make every effort to stay out of the way, as I always do. My bad.)
So far my speed blogging isn't going that well.
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Work
This is what I work on at work. Google Audio Ads!
I'll leave it at that, as I don't really feel like writing too much work stuff on this here blog of mine...as it really is my work diversion (not work immersion) device...So, I hope the video is good. I haven't watched it yet. I will. Eventually. Buy some Google Audio Ads!
I'll leave it at that, as I don't really feel like writing too much work stuff on this here blog of mine...as it really is my work diversion (not work immersion) device...So, I hope the video is good. I haven't watched it yet. I will. Eventually. Buy some Google Audio Ads!
Session 76 - May 14 - LM
Wednesday May 14, 7-8:45 AM, 6'2 Kirkshapes
Finally a break from the wind...been pretty much a mess up there in San Mateo county spots for the last couple weeks. At least I have Santa Cruz to maintain my sanity, for those cool City kids it's been a tough run. Anyways we've got a bit of a window of opportunity now and through the rest of the week, so got out there and made the most of it along with the rest of the Linda Mar regulars...
Surf wasn't anything to get overly excited about, but at least it was surfable. Ramin and I got some fun ones to start a bit north of the showers, I paddled a bit more north thinking it might be better, it wasn't, so moved back to spot 1 and picked off a few more...some decent lefts, one nice right that I got dropped in on, all in all pretty fun. Pretty soft and mushy shoulders w/ the high tide but what are ya gonna do...still fun out there. Good for the fish. Ramin was ripping on his new 5'11, great board for him, the skinny little fella that he is.
For context, here's the numbers as they are reported right now on the Stokemaster stoke console:
Swell Height:
6 ft holding
Swell Directions:
Most energy from NW(322), with NW(313) and WNW(300)
Swell Period:
7 sec descreasing
Wind:
14 Kt from NNW(330) Gust: 16 Kt
Plus: High tide was at 7:21 AM, 3.83 ft.
All that translates to: soft mushy but workable shoulders, chest to head high, maybe slightly larger on the biggest of the closeout sets. Add in beautiful blue skies, what felt like nearly 80 degree weather as soon as I woke up at 6 AM, and you got a good morning.
Again, more pictures. Are more pictures good, even if the pictures are bad? Probably. Yes. Whatever.
(picture from my go-to LM surf-check cam, a mom and pop operation, drop em a couple bucks!)
Finally a break from the wind...been pretty much a mess up there in San Mateo county spots for the last couple weeks. At least I have Santa Cruz to maintain my sanity, for those cool City kids it's been a tough run. Anyways we've got a bit of a window of opportunity now and through the rest of the week, so got out there and made the most of it along with the rest of the Linda Mar regulars...
Surf wasn't anything to get overly excited about, but at least it was surfable. Ramin and I got some fun ones to start a bit north of the showers, I paddled a bit more north thinking it might be better, it wasn't, so moved back to spot 1 and picked off a few more...some decent lefts, one nice right that I got dropped in on, all in all pretty fun. Pretty soft and mushy shoulders w/ the high tide but what are ya gonna do...still fun out there. Good for the fish. Ramin was ripping on his new 5'11, great board for him, the skinny little fella that he is.
For context, here's the numbers as they are reported right now on the Stokemaster stoke console:
Swell Height:
6 ft holding
Swell Directions:
Most energy from NW(322), with NW(313) and WNW(300)
Swell Period:
7 sec descreasing
Wind:
14 Kt from NNW(330) Gust: 16 Kt
Plus: High tide was at 7:21 AM, 3.83 ft.
All that translates to: soft mushy but workable shoulders, chest to head high, maybe slightly larger on the biggest of the closeout sets. Add in beautiful blue skies, what felt like nearly 80 degree weather as soon as I woke up at 6 AM, and you got a good morning.
Again, more pictures. Are more pictures good, even if the pictures are bad? Probably. Yes. Whatever.
(picture from my go-to LM surf-check cam, a mom and pop operation, drop em a couple bucks!)
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Session 75 - May 13 - 2nd Peak
Tuesday May 13, 7-8:30 AM, 6'2 KG
SESSION 75! Half way there!
I don't quite understand this drawing I found on the internet but I'm trying to add more pictures to my blog
SESSION 75! Half way there!
I don't quite understand this drawing I found on the internet but I'm trying to add more pictures to my blogFun session this morning, almost didn't do it but dragged myself out of bed...not feeling very hot these days, bit of a cold or something, throat really hurt this morning waking up. Very tempting to stay under the warm covers but the ray of sunshine coming through my over-bed window was enough to lure me outside. Thanks ray of sunshine, I never regret my decision when I'm out, especially when the surf is fun. Pretty small but clean out there, took the KG down the ladder and right on out, sat between 1st and 2nd peak and picked off the 1st peak leftovers. Some fun rides, not on my best game this morning, amazing how just a week off can leave you rusty, but it felt good and water is warming up some from the spring upwelling iciness, so I think the booties can be stored for summer -- in Santa Cruz at least. The less gear/rubber necessary for a surf session, the better...the more in tune you are with your environment, just you and the elements...soon I'll trade in the 4/3 for the 3/2 as well...
Surf forecast looking somewhat positive for next couple of days so I'll probably be out there on all of 'em, most likely somewhere north at I'm staying in the View tonight and possibly the rest of the week. Working on a few coworkers to get em out there with me, we'll see, always good to have company.
Update! Cool thing from this morning's session I forgot to post -- dolphins! Shared the lineup with a school of maybe 8 or so dolphins real close in. They came through and made a bit of a splash out there, fun stuff. Amazing how close they were! Little visits of (cute, friendly variety) sea creatures always keep things interesting...the otters out there are well reknown, they're fun to watch as they try to crack open their latest clam dinner or mess around in the surf.
I'm meeting Ramin at 6:30 tomorrow morning at Linda Mar...bedtime!
Surf forecast looking somewhat positive for next couple of days so I'll probably be out there on all of 'em, most likely somewhere north at I'm staying in the View tonight and possibly the rest of the week. Working on a few coworkers to get em out there with me, we'll see, always good to have company.
Update! Cool thing from this morning's session I forgot to post -- dolphins! Shared the lineup with a school of maybe 8 or so dolphins real close in. They came through and made a bit of a splash out there, fun stuff. Amazing how close they were! Little visits of (cute, friendly variety) sea creatures always keep things interesting...the otters out there are well reknown, they're fun to watch as they try to crack open their latest clam dinner or mess around in the surf.
I'm meeting Ramin at 6:30 tomorrow morning at Linda Mar...bedtime!
Monday, May 12, 2008
landlocked
Been a long time since a surf, last Tuesday...weather and tides not cooperating in my open allotment of time window late last week, and was in Oregon for a wedding and Mother's Day Fri, Sat, and Sunday. Came back on the morning flight today, 6:20 PDX departure, SJC by 8:20, work by 9...I'd go surf tonight but I have this silly class until 9:30 PM...at least there's only two more of those to go, and then I get my Mondays back, in all their glory! Yay, Monday!
Was good to go home and see everybody and have some family time, and Yosuke and Bory's wedding was great. Nice work guys, congrats. Saw the grandparents also and they're doing well, Bun moving around like a champ and Papa holding things down like always. And also learned I have some readers in the good ol' Pacific NW, mom, dad, Q...thanks guys! Thanks dad for the ride to the airport at 5 AM!
Well nothing to say just posting for the sake of posting, and to make sure nobody was concerned I forgot my login info...I'm here, just haven't surfed in a bit. Maybe get out tomorrow morning, still debating on making the SC drive or not, I probably will. The beach is calling!
Was good to go home and see everybody and have some family time, and Yosuke and Bory's wedding was great. Nice work guys, congrats. Saw the grandparents also and they're doing well, Bun moving around like a champ and Papa holding things down like always. And also learned I have some readers in the good ol' Pacific NW, mom, dad, Q...thanks guys! Thanks dad for the ride to the airport at 5 AM!
Well nothing to say just posting for the sake of posting, and to make sure nobody was concerned I forgot my login info...I'm here, just haven't surfed in a bit. Maybe get out tomorrow morning, still debating on making the SC drive or not, I probably will. The beach is calling!
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Daily Donkey
If you spend enough time browsing surf blogs, you've probably already come across this great collection of supreme kookdom, otherwise known as 'Your Daily Donkey'...but in the event you've been missing out, well, enjoy...just a few of the many gems you'll find. Yay, summer!
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Session 74 - May 6 - 1st peak
Tuesday May 6, 7:30-8:30 PM, 6'2 KG Fish
Short session, short post...Not a whole lot happening out there in the ocean this particular evening, but decided why not, grabbed the fish and headed out. One of the bonuses of (mostly) flatness is (mostly) no crowds, so there are positives, glass half-full perspective...Taking advantage of this lack of crowds I made a rare foray out to 1st Peak, shared it with only a couple other guys. I see why that is guarded so closely -- fun wave. Really bowls up right there and pitches over, lots of fun and a good challenging wave, that can offer up some barrels and nice fast rides. In my hours time caught at least 10 waves, maybe more, of which some were nice, long, fast rights, lots of fun on the fish. On my first wave not used to the spot I got eaten by the bowl, learning experience, made note of that from there on out. Fun short session. On my way in it was pretty much dark, but some maniac was actually just getting in the water to start his session...night-surfer!
Short session, short post...Not a whole lot happening out there in the ocean this particular evening, but decided why not, grabbed the fish and headed out. One of the bonuses of (mostly) flatness is (mostly) no crowds, so there are positives, glass half-full perspective...Taking advantage of this lack of crowds I made a rare foray out to 1st Peak, shared it with only a couple other guys. I see why that is guarded so closely -- fun wave. Really bowls up right there and pitches over, lots of fun and a good challenging wave, that can offer up some barrels and nice fast rides. In my hours time caught at least 10 waves, maybe more, of which some were nice, long, fast rights, lots of fun on the fish. On my first wave not used to the spot I got eaten by the bowl, learning experience, made note of that from there on out. Fun short session. On my way in it was pretty much dark, but some maniac was actually just getting in the water to start his session...night-surfer!
Monday, May 5, 2008
Cinco de Mayo
Dug into the photo archives for a few shots from south of the border...cinco de mayo style!
Session 73 - May 4 - 2nd Peak
Sunday May 4, 6:30-7:30, 9'0 BeckerSnuck in a quick session before dinner date night at Shadowbrook Restaurant for Selin's bday...fun (both dinner and the surf). Swell has dropped since it peaked on Friday/Saturday, but still hanging around a bit and offering up some shoulder high lines out at 2nd Peak. Pretty friendly crowd out there for the most part, plenty of folks but still managed to snag my share of fun waves, got some fun ones from further outside, straddling between the shortboarding pack of 1st peak and the longboarders at 2nd. And, amazingly, right when it was time for me to head in, a wave came right to me and I surfed it practically all the way to 38th stairs. You know things are going your way when that happens!
I've been extra tired today so far. Wake up!
And on an unrelated note, I realized Horace has been pretty text heavy lately. Where are all the pretty pictures? (I mean who actually reads blogs anyways?) So I'll try to appease the masses and throw some more pictures up on this thing from time to time. To get things started, I put one at the top of the post. I think I'll try to put up more when I have some time, maybe something south of the border themed from Mexico/Costa Rica trips...feliz cinco de mayo!
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Session 72 - May 3 - 2nd Peak
Saturday May 3, 6-7:30, 9'0 Becker
Wave mania! No joke for the first like 45 minutes of this session I don't think I stopped paddling once. Non-stop wave action. Joel was watching from the cliff, to (loosely) quote him:
"I stood up there and watched for an hour because the waves never stopped. I saw you catch a bunch of waves but not any good ones. I saw you get blatantly dropped in on by some kid on one that looked nice, did you get mad at him? Looked like fun out there."
Pretty good summary. I did get out there and catch a bunch of waves but as I was sitting inside a bit for sake of catching lots of waves I didn't catch many that were make-able for very long, ie lots of close out sections that if I was sitting further outside woulda been able to make but not from where I was at. Some pretty good surfers out, fun to watch them and take some mental notes. And yes some kid who did blatantly drop in on me and then proceeded to pretend I wasn't there the whole rest of the wave which was actually a pretty good long shoulder high peeler that I was in primo position to shred apart, as best I can on a 9'0 longboard. But instead I got to watch the 12 year old grom ripping directly in front of me. Respect your elders grommet!!! Well on his way to becoming one of those guys with no respect for anyone because he surfs better than them. Oh well what are you gonna do, I'm not gonna get mad at a 12 year old. At the end of the wave, I just looked at him, put my hands up to express 'what was up with that' and said "nice wave." The story does however have a happy ending because an hour later or so we had a repeat scenario, me in position on a wave and him right there to jam me, but when he looked back and saw me going for it he backed off. So, I'll take it. Respect from a 12 year old. Gotta start somewhere!
Pretty fun surf and again no shortage of waves. Pumping out there! When it was time for dinner and my paddle muscles were on fire, called it good, caught a long one and came up the 38th ave stairs.
Selin's bday today, it's party time! Happy BDAY Dargi!!!!
Wave mania! No joke for the first like 45 minutes of this session I don't think I stopped paddling once. Non-stop wave action. Joel was watching from the cliff, to (loosely) quote him:
"I stood up there and watched for an hour because the waves never stopped. I saw you catch a bunch of waves but not any good ones. I saw you get blatantly dropped in on by some kid on one that looked nice, did you get mad at him? Looked like fun out there."
Pretty good summary. I did get out there and catch a bunch of waves but as I was sitting inside a bit for sake of catching lots of waves I didn't catch many that were make-able for very long, ie lots of close out sections that if I was sitting further outside woulda been able to make but not from where I was at. Some pretty good surfers out, fun to watch them and take some mental notes. And yes some kid who did blatantly drop in on me and then proceeded to pretend I wasn't there the whole rest of the wave which was actually a pretty good long shoulder high peeler that I was in primo position to shred apart, as best I can on a 9'0 longboard. But instead I got to watch the 12 year old grom ripping directly in front of me. Respect your elders grommet!!! Well on his way to becoming one of those guys with no respect for anyone because he surfs better than them. Oh well what are you gonna do, I'm not gonna get mad at a 12 year old. At the end of the wave, I just looked at him, put my hands up to express 'what was up with that' and said "nice wave." The story does however have a happy ending because an hour later or so we had a repeat scenario, me in position on a wave and him right there to jam me, but when he looked back and saw me going for it he backed off. So, I'll take it. Respect from a 12 year old. Gotta start somewhere!
Pretty fun surf and again no shortage of waves. Pumping out there! When it was time for dinner and my paddle muscles were on fire, called it good, caught a long one and came up the 38th ave stairs.
Selin's bday today, it's party time! Happy BDAY Dargi!!!!
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Session 71 - April May 3 - 38th
Saturday May 3, 12:30-3:30, 9'0 Becker
About to head out for session #72 I think but I'll get this done with quick. Surf still pretty good today, lazy in the morning but got out there with Joel around 12 something. Hung out at 38th as that is a fun wave when it's working, snagged some fun ones. One real long one picked up from farthest out 38th, nearly halfway to 2nd peak practically and made it past a couple sections at the start to surf it all the way in past O'Neill's. Good, fun, wave, my best version of noseriding too -- both feet about in the middle of the Becker symbol, that's about 8 inches or so from the very tip I'd guesstimate. Should've just gone all the way. Next time. Note to self, don't let noseriding attempts turn into bad surfing. There's a time for a walk to the nose but also a time for a cutback or turn, walking forward is not the answer for all that ails you...I write this because on one wave I found myself trying to walk up there and I shouldn't have been, should have actually cut back towards the curl. Untimely noseride attempts, that's just plain kooky.
Joel came out but his groin is hurt. He can't even stand up, old man. Sucks for him, hopefully that heals up one of these days. He kneeboarded a couple and called it a day.
Session #72 begins now, later bros!
About to head out for session #72 I think but I'll get this done with quick. Surf still pretty good today, lazy in the morning but got out there with Joel around 12 something. Hung out at 38th as that is a fun wave when it's working, snagged some fun ones. One real long one picked up from farthest out 38th, nearly halfway to 2nd peak practically and made it past a couple sections at the start to surf it all the way in past O'Neill's. Good, fun, wave, my best version of noseriding too -- both feet about in the middle of the Becker symbol, that's about 8 inches or so from the very tip I'd guesstimate. Should've just gone all the way. Next time. Note to self, don't let noseriding attempts turn into bad surfing. There's a time for a walk to the nose but also a time for a cutback or turn, walking forward is not the answer for all that ails you...I write this because on one wave I found myself trying to walk up there and I shouldn't have been, should have actually cut back towards the curl. Untimely noseride attempts, that's just plain kooky.
Joel came out but his groin is hurt. He can't even stand up, old man. Sucks for him, hopefully that heals up one of these days. He kneeboarded a couple and called it a day.
Session #72 begins now, later bros!
Session 70 - May 2 - SC Beachy + Hook
Friday May 2, 6:30-8:30, 6'6 quad
As already mentioned, again a bit of a whomping at surf destination #1 for the morning, swell was peaking even more than night before so sets were really stacking up pretty big. I'm terrible when it comes to estimating wave sizes, and for what it's worth, I actually tend to underestimate rather than overestimate, just to let you know...I don't know I'd call it head and a half I guess on the big ones. Easy. So I went back to the same spot as the night before and threw myself into the inferno again for round #2. (Side note, it gets really light really early, can surf a long time before work...trick is just finding a way to drag myself out of bed that early!). I caught a couple good lefts pretty quickly, but after botching my take off on one pretty solid right -- my hand slipped as I was popping up -- I wasn't really feeling it that early in the morning so I went in. Still early so made stop #2, at the Hook, which I know the wave isn't really going to threaten me, but the crowd probably will. Sitting a bit inside though I still manage to catch a bunch of waves out there, so had some fun. Such a fast wave, plus I'm really slow backside, have a hard time keeping up with the wave...but caught a few I was able to stay in front of pretty nice. On a long lull called it good and paddled in, drove home, showered, and off to work. Friday!
As already mentioned, again a bit of a whomping at surf destination #1 for the morning, swell was peaking even more than night before so sets were really stacking up pretty big. I'm terrible when it comes to estimating wave sizes, and for what it's worth, I actually tend to underestimate rather than overestimate, just to let you know...I don't know I'd call it head and a half I guess on the big ones. Easy. So I went back to the same spot as the night before and threw myself into the inferno again for round #2. (Side note, it gets really light really early, can surf a long time before work...trick is just finding a way to drag myself out of bed that early!). I caught a couple good lefts pretty quickly, but after botching my take off on one pretty solid right -- my hand slipped as I was popping up -- I wasn't really feeling it that early in the morning so I went in. Still early so made stop #2, at the Hook, which I know the wave isn't really going to threaten me, but the crowd probably will. Sitting a bit inside though I still manage to catch a bunch of waves out there, so had some fun. Such a fast wave, plus I'm really slow backside, have a hard time keeping up with the wave...but caught a few I was able to stay in front of pretty nice. On a long lull called it good and paddled in, drove home, showered, and off to work. Friday!
Session 69 - May 1 - SC Beachy
Thursday May 1, 6:30-8, 6'6 quad
Took a bit of a thumping on this and the following sessions, but that's good for me. Surfing point perfection all the time will make me soft...gotta mix it up from time to time! Plus, I do love those lefts. So made the call to avoid some crowds and avoid long rights and took the quad out to a (slightly) less crowded spot in town. Definitely have a bit of swell in the water so waves had some punch to them, overhead on the sets, and conditions were a bit funky, waves kind of doing whatever they wanted, pitching here, backing off there, kind of all over, but hey that's what beach break is all about, right? I caught some fun ones, as well as taking a couple sets inside on the head, but all worth it.
One thing a lot of people probably don't realize about surfing is that there is so much skill involved, not just in the actual act of catching and riding the wave, but in terms of positioning and knowledge and understanding of where and what is going to happen. The actual 'waveriding' part of it is such a small fraction of all the things that need to be done...surfing these kind of spots helps to remind you of that. It's easy to look at all those surf mags with their up-close in the barrel shots or look at all the people surfing perfect Pleasure Point and think, wow that's easy...but what that doesn't show is how much mayhem can be going on in the water right around that perfect barrel. It took a ton of skill and knowledge for that surfer to put himself right in that position for that barrel photo to even happen. Enough rambling but I had a fun session and good to challenge myself and mix it up. And good to surf some lefts.
Took a bit of a thumping on this and the following sessions, but that's good for me. Surfing point perfection all the time will make me soft...gotta mix it up from time to time! Plus, I do love those lefts. So made the call to avoid some crowds and avoid long rights and took the quad out to a (slightly) less crowded spot in town. Definitely have a bit of swell in the water so waves had some punch to them, overhead on the sets, and conditions were a bit funky, waves kind of doing whatever they wanted, pitching here, backing off there, kind of all over, but hey that's what beach break is all about, right? I caught some fun ones, as well as taking a couple sets inside on the head, but all worth it.
One thing a lot of people probably don't realize about surfing is that there is so much skill involved, not just in the actual act of catching and riding the wave, but in terms of positioning and knowledge and understanding of where and what is going to happen. The actual 'waveriding' part of it is such a small fraction of all the things that need to be done...surfing these kind of spots helps to remind you of that. It's easy to look at all those surf mags with their up-close in the barrel shots or look at all the people surfing perfect Pleasure Point and think, wow that's easy...but what that doesn't show is how much mayhem can be going on in the water right around that perfect barrel. It took a ton of skill and knowledge for that surfer to put himself right in that position for that barrel photo to even happen. Enough rambling but I had a fun session and good to challenge myself and mix it up. And good to surf some lefts.
Thursday, May 1, 2008
Session 68 - April 30 - 2nd Peak
Wednesday April 30, 7-8:30 PM, 9'0 Becker
Not a whole lot of time to write this here post today -- busy busy busy w/ work -- but it was a pretty sweet session so I'll get it up here sooner rather than later. Those work emails will still be in my inbox 5 minutes from now, they can wait...
The trifecta of surfing bliss came together last night, swell, wind, and (lack of) crowds...so really had a great time out there in my short time window. A bit of debate on board selection but chose the longboard, good choice. Scrambled down the stairs/ladder and right into the mix, didn't take long to pick up wave #1 -- amazing what just a short layoff will do to the paddling muscles -- was feeling it right away. (I haven't had a serious paddling session in a while -- last session was Saturday but there wasn't a whole lot of paddling involved -- made up for it here). Anyways surf was real nice, head high on the drop and then tapering off a bit but still walling up nicely for some fun, long rides, doing my best versions of cutbacks and top turns to extend the ride, still lots of work to be done there...most notably in the style department...I can do these maneuvers now but I'm fairly certain I don't look too good doing them. Compare that with a couple of the other guys who were also out with me last night -- they were surfing the same waves, doing the same (well similar) maneuvers, but they just have so much more style on it -- got the confident, assertive cross-step instead of the 'what-am-I-doing-should-I-do-this' uncertain waddle up to (near) the nose of the board, got the powerful, driving drop-knee bottom turn (but not overdone like the one guy Joel and I watched at Steamer Lane for some old-guy contest a couple weeks ago who was so over-exaggerated on his drop-knee turning it was to the point of ridiculousness), and notably going without a leash instead of my bright yellow knee ding-string. (going leashless is the ultimate indicator of cool-guy status. But I do respect it, and I'll admit, it is cool)
But as was the case last night, it is a pleasure to surf with these kind of guys -- when they're not complete morons. It's enjoyable to watch good surfers surf good waves, especially when there's not much of a crowd and they're all having a good time, sharing waves, hollering for one another. In fact, I even got a holler myself on one of my aforementioned questioning waddles to (near) the nose of my board, which I really appreciated, great to have someone sharing the stoke and cheering you on as you're trying to progress your surfing. Certainly beats the opposite, which is some jerk getting mad at you when you mess up trying to do something that for you, is an achievement, but may be commonplace for him and a source of derision.
So I've spent more minutes on this post than I should have, but that's what happens when the surf is good. But I really probably should get to that work now. Forecast for the rest of the week and into the weekend is looking pretty fun, so will do my best to get on it early and often.
Not a whole lot of time to write this here post today -- busy busy busy w/ work -- but it was a pretty sweet session so I'll get it up here sooner rather than later. Those work emails will still be in my inbox 5 minutes from now, they can wait...
The trifecta of surfing bliss came together last night, swell, wind, and (lack of) crowds...so really had a great time out there in my short time window. A bit of debate on board selection but chose the longboard, good choice. Scrambled down the stairs/ladder and right into the mix, didn't take long to pick up wave #1 -- amazing what just a short layoff will do to the paddling muscles -- was feeling it right away. (I haven't had a serious paddling session in a while -- last session was Saturday but there wasn't a whole lot of paddling involved -- made up for it here). Anyways surf was real nice, head high on the drop and then tapering off a bit but still walling up nicely for some fun, long rides, doing my best versions of cutbacks and top turns to extend the ride, still lots of work to be done there...most notably in the style department...I can do these maneuvers now but I'm fairly certain I don't look too good doing them. Compare that with a couple of the other guys who were also out with me last night -- they were surfing the same waves, doing the same (well similar) maneuvers, but they just have so much more style on it -- got the confident, assertive cross-step instead of the 'what-am-I-doing-should-I-do-this' uncertain waddle up to (near) the nose of the board, got the powerful, driving drop-knee bottom turn (but not overdone like the one guy Joel and I watched at Steamer Lane for some old-guy contest a couple weeks ago who was so over-exaggerated on his drop-knee turning it was to the point of ridiculousness), and notably going without a leash instead of my bright yellow knee ding-string. (going leashless is the ultimate indicator of cool-guy status. But I do respect it, and I'll admit, it is cool)
But as was the case last night, it is a pleasure to surf with these kind of guys -- when they're not complete morons. It's enjoyable to watch good surfers surf good waves, especially when there's not much of a crowd and they're all having a good time, sharing waves, hollering for one another. In fact, I even got a holler myself on one of my aforementioned questioning waddles to (near) the nose of my board, which I really appreciated, great to have someone sharing the stoke and cheering you on as you're trying to progress your surfing. Certainly beats the opposite, which is some jerk getting mad at you when you mess up trying to do something that for you, is an achievement, but may be commonplace for him and a source of derision.
So I've spent more minutes on this post than I should have, but that's what happens when the surf is good. But I really probably should get to that work now. Forecast for the rest of the week and into the weekend is looking pretty fun, so will do my best to get on it early and often.
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