Sun Jan 11, 2-4:30, 6'2 KG
What does 2009 have in store for Horace the Pig? I haven't quite figured that out yet. I don't know if I have the drive and desire to log every session again, a la 2008. While I liked it a lot from an organizational and monitoring-progress standpoint, I did get a little (just a little) tired of writing. About myself. All the time. Blogs such as this one are extremely self-absorbed entities...somebody in my family said it best. Was it my dad? Grampa? Joel? I don't remember. But basically they said my blog was just something I did so I could write about and tell everybody what I was doing at every moment, because, really, that is the first thing on everybody's mind at all moments in time, naturally. What did Nic do today? Pretty important stuff, the world would surely be at a loss without my detailed five paragraph chronicle on surf session #87 on June 10 at the Jetty on my 6'6 quad, where I got stuck behind a slow garbage truck on the drive over HW 92 in the morning, but was quite excited at how much sunlight there was already at 5:30 am. This is critical stuff here, can you imagine the impact on the world had I not blogged that on Horace for all to see for all eternity?
So, suffice it to say that I haven't figured out what I'll do with Horace this year. But, in the meantime, I'll stick with the ol' routine. Get ready -- you won't want to miss this recap of exactly what I did on the weekend. Really, it's gripping stuff.
On Saturday January 10 2009 I finally surfed for the first time in the New Year. Took ya long enough, old man. Joel came over the hill and picked me up and we carpooled up north to hunt down a bit more juice, looking clean but small (too small) out front. Beautiful sunny day, one of those winter SC days that I just love, crisp, clear air, bright blue skies, and all that ocean right out there doing its thing. Hardly any wind, glass on the water, got to our destination and saw only a few people out on the low tide (-1.6 at its lowest, I think), and our reward for making the trip clean, fun looking chest head high + sets coming through consistently. Suited up, walked down the hill and through the tide pools to a near empty peak, became empty after not too long, stayed there a bit and then moved over a bit further inside the bay, where was really working with some longer walled up lefts, rights as well...2 other guys, then one other guy, then no other guy...beautiful calm evening...got out (late for dinner date, woops) to a vivid setting sun...just an amazing place to be, beautiful. As for my surf got some good waves, pretty happy on that.
Sunday. Pretty much a repeat of Saturday as far as the weather goes, swell maybe dropped a bit, but still working good out there, definite surf day...this time met Joel at our destination, surf check from the bluff didn't look as promising as yesterday, drove a bit further to check another spot, looked kind of closed out and sectiony from our roadside vantage point, I couldn't be late again on this evening so, just drove back to the easiest access parking lot and went out there. Good call, fun session, lots of waves, again no crowd, got some real good ones on the 6'2 speed demon fish, board flies when you put it in the right spot (which I do, occassionally)...good session, so far so good for 2009, 2 for 2.
UPDATE: Joel felt under-recognized in this posting. " Joel: why did't you write about me throwing buckets"
Well, Joel, obviously it was lost on you that Horace is only about ME, Only, All the Time...but I'll grant you an exception just this once. I suppose. Joel was quite happy with our surf sessions as well, including what he called his best cutback ever, which yes, I did witness, and yes, he was throwing buckets. Nicely done, bro, shredding.
In non surf news, I also watched 'Gran Torino' on Saturday night in a packed theater downtown...great movie, I enjoyed it thoroughly. Highly recommended.
Thanks for reading. Important stuff, no?
2 comments:
When I'm stuck at my desk miles from the beach, it's good to read about others' surfing adventures. Totally know what you mean about the blogging fatigue though. But if you keep writing 'em, we'll keep reading 'em!
yeah, i get too lazy to blog but when I get a good session or some good photos it's all I can think about now when I get back home. I'm gonna keep whales2heaven running once I'm back in the water, but probably limit it to mostly photos and just the occasional rant. it's nice to look back on the year's worth of sessions though. 2009 I plan on building some more universally useful content to share with the local surf community, as well as learning to shape and taking a ton more photos...need to document Joel's buckets and some of your closeout barrels this year!
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