It seems like a lot...until you break it down individually by spot. My local break (just barely) was the one in front of my house. Guess that's good...it is what I pay the rent for, after all. But I only surfed there 31 times, in a whole year. Doesn't seem that impressive when you look at it that way. Here's the full breakdown, by spot.
2nd Peak: 31
LM: 28
Hook: 23
38th: 21
WC: 12
26th: 9
Lane: 7
OB: 7
Yo: 6
Jty: 5
MT: 3
4M: 2
Sharks: 1
Rockview: 1
Dunes: 1
GWC: 1
Cowells: 1
Plus a few out of towners:
El Sal: 8
Puerto Rico: 7
Big F: 1
Malibu: 1
Ventura: 1
So, not that many at any one spot when you look at it like that. So many days...so few surfs...work -- really gets in the way of this whole surfing thing, doesn't it?
Since I'm at it, might as well give ya the breakdown by month too:
Jan: 9
Feb: 19
Mar: 23
Apr: 17
May: 14
Jun: 18
Jul: 12
Jul: 12
Aug: 19
Sep: 16
Oct: 9
Nov: 16
Dec: 5
So, March. Surfed the MOST sessions in March. I guess that's a pretty good month to surf a lot. I wonder what will happen in 2009. So far we're not off to a very good start -- 9 days in, ZERO surfs. In fact, December wasn't that much better -- FIVE? Weak.
Enough negativity. Let's look at some of the highlights. I surfed several new-to-me spots. Central America was absolutely amazing. Puerto Rico, equally so. Surfed Malibu for the first time, not a classic day but fun out there. Ventura. Incredible mysto NorCal smugglers spot... 8 mile hike and all. Gettin some legs under me out at OB -- that's a good thing. The Yo -- thanks to some bros for gettin' me out there.
Barrels? Plenty of the closeout variety. Still working on getting out of a legitimate one -- some day. 2009 sounds as good as any year for that.
Epic sessions? I'll remember some of those late year ones at OB. Broken board? Check. (8'10 Vernor RIP). New Boards? Check. Check. Check. Yeah, a few too many of those. Kooking out? Well, yep. CHECK. Good times, Good Bros? Definitely CHECK. Great year, met some awesome new folks -- surf industry heavy hitters and good ol' Surf@G cronies alike. Many more surfs, friendship, and laughs to come in years far down the road. Got to be excited on that.
Looking back -- good year. Fun to have it documented here. I'm sure when I'm old, I'll look back on the year fondly. And I'll remember the waves as 3x bigger than they actually were.
Still...Wish I could've surfed more. Don't we all?
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1 comment:
nice stats! lets see some pie charts and extrapolate the data for some session forecasting for 2009...or uh, just go surfing. i want to break down some of the data from my blogging too and get a sense of what % of the year is actually surfable at OB...
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