4 sessions, one post...you might want to get used to it...things might get a bit crazy here at HoracethePig in 2009. I know I keep saying the same thing, just undecided still on how structured I'll keep these efforts this year...if I knew more about blog layout, I actually think I'd make the session-logging something off to the side, not the main focus...I want to keep it around, because I do like being able to look back at each month/year and see my progress, where I surfed, remember memorable moments, but probably not a detailed review on every session...I envision something like a little running tally of surfs off to the side somewhere, still prominent and still a central element, but not THE element. Write more about sessions when it is warranted, not feel obligated to write about every one...something like that. We'll see.
I did do some thinking though on what 2009 should focus on. 2008 I was very goal-oriented. My manager at work would be proud. Set myself out a very quantifiable, measurable, and even a bit of a stretch goal in some ways - 150 sessions. Then sat down and structured a way to keep track of it, in detail, monitor my progress, milestones along the way, with periodic reviews to make sure I was keeping on pace...end result, smashed the goal, incredible performance, where's my luminary award? So...that was all well and good. And, what do you know, I actually did get (a little?) better at surfing. But when I sit down and think, do I want another repeat goal for 2009? 150 quantifiable, measured by a number, regimented somewhat surf sessions? And my answer is no, not so much. So, I made my resolution for 2009 (get ready, this is corny): Surf For Fun.
Make fun of it all you want. I know it sounds cheeseball "Riding Giants-esque" one big happy tribe, "come join us" (stealing a little bit from ColParker.blogspot here), but, I think that's what I'll try to do. Have fun. Don't worry about the goals, the numbers, the wave counts, the reports. If I'm not feeling a particular session, don't sweat it; if it's beautiful on the beach go on in and hang out for a while. If there's a bunch of dudes out yelling and ruining the session and I'm not feeling like getting in there, don't -- surf the leftovers as best I can or surf somewhere else entirely. Even if that somewhere else is soft-top infiltrated 38th. Have fun with it, surf when I can, as much as I can of course (can't get too soft now)...but, if the year ends at session #149, no big deal, hopefully it was 149 fun sessions.
How does the blog fit into all this, will continue to work that out.
For now, like this:
Saturday: Surf was good. I was lazy. Joel came over and rallied me midday/noonish. Checked quite a few town spots wound up at the Lane. Heck of a current to paddle against to stay in position, but managed to do so for a decent amount of time at least. Best potential wave I should've caught I wiped out on. To my credit stayed out of the way really well, plenty of waves all over though, all the peaks breaking, main obstacle not the crowds but the current. Caught one I didn't wipe out on and rode it through Indicators, hung out there and caught a few more. Nice day, lots of folks out and about enjoying summer in January.
Sunday: Coworker invasion! Bunch of friends from work came down south to enjoy our fortuitous 3 day weekend, coincided with good solid swell and seriously nearly 80 degree sunshine. So they came and swung by Lazytown rental shop, loaned out some gear and gave some quick lessons on surf ettiquete to those in need, and we walked on down to the beach. Beautiful day. For the most part, everybody managed to get at least a wave or two, although they were a bit few and far between on the outskirts of 38th, where they were staying to avoid the crowds...but the weather...how's this for an indication: i surfed in boardies and my 2/1 rashguard top...yes, in January. Didn't hurt I was on the 9'8 boat-board and stayed pretty much dry most of the session but, still, crazy.
Monday: MLK Day, coworkers had stayed the night at Katie's parents house in Aptos, came back over for a repeat of Sunday. Weather still cooperated, surf had gotten a bit messier and bit less crowded which was actually good, meant more disjointed waves for people to catch. I again surfed in boardies on the 9'8, good times. After a slice of pizza city kids went on their way, I took the 6'2 KG out at The Hook which was working quite nice, and caught quite a few insiders...best peak pretty crowded where waves were coming through and could actually stay in front for a nice long ride, I didn't hassle w/ that group and sat off at the first peak, where plenty of waves would come through that I could try (and inevitably fail) to keep up with. Or, go left, never object to that. Wore a wetsuit this time, 6'2 ≠ 9'8.
Fun, amazing weather, great weekend. Can't we just make em all 3 days?
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