Come back soon family!
As you can tell, my old man both rips (final photo) and is good at getting himself out of a sand pit.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Family Time
A while ago my folks came down from Orygun to visit sunny Santa Cruz. As usual, the Golden State did not disapoint and delivered a great stretch of clear, sunny, warm days, perfect for lounging outside and spending some quality time by the water. Maddy, fresh off her long Boston winter, quickly blinded us all at the beach (at least for one day, after that, she was bright red...Sunscreen, Maddy. Use it.) Dad surfed up a storm. Joel surfed up a storm. Spotless ran wild. Maddy baked like a lobster. And Mom held it all together and kept the family on track like only she can. (She also did a fantastic job driving, all by herself, on those SCARY california freeways!). It was a great visit and I truly enjoy having my family here. Even when there are 6 of us crammed into my tiny little studio. Tracking dirt in and out. I can hardly clean fast enough.
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2 comments:
Great set of pics and some great looking waves too!
good times Nic. you'll be happy to know that the Brewer has found a nice home in the corner of my room. It's stoked to complete rehab and get back in to action.
In other news, someone posted this on stokereport today and I thought it expressed the vibe / lessons I've learned from surfing with you and all the other great people from Thrashtown:
"I wish people would stop picking this scab.
Localism in most of California is dying out (thank god). There are too many surfers nowadays to know who's who. The old guys who grew up perpetuating it are dropping away, getting weak and ineffectual, bit by bit.
I don't like how crowded it is, but I don't miss all that bs. There's so many reasons to NOT perpetuate localism:
Ultimately it won't work- a losing battle, a chump's game.
It's arrested development teenage male behavior that's only cool to stupid jerks you don't want to hang out with.
Male male male. Woman don't do this (unless they're nuts), and I don't know about you, but I love surfing with women over dudes.
You want to travel? Me too. You want to be treated fairly at a break you visit? Me too! But you can't have it both ways.
Dammit, the ocean doesn't belong to anyone! Anyway, where do you live at Ft Point? Seriously? Same for Deadmans. I'm supposed to give you respect 'cause you live in Seacliff? Yuppie and proud of it? Sheesh.
Finally- how much time do we all have left? We are SO LUCKY to surf, crowds or not. Life is meant to be enjoyed. Every guy I know who was ever aggro at some point always regrets it later. Always. Enjoy this life you have... and be kind to others, like you'd want them to be to you."
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