Session 21 - Mar 1 - Swrs

Weather kinda blew all day Sunday, but in the afternoon rain calmed down a bit and I went for a walk outside. It's nice to put on a raincoat and go for a walk sometimes. It reminds me of home. Growing up in Oregon, I used to walk in the rain all the time. I was in the rain so much, that I didn't even own a raincoat. Now, I'm this full-blown Californian and I think I own like 3 raincoats. And it hardly even ever rains. How's that for sensical?

So on my walk I went to one of my favorite places to walk and stand, which is this rock that sticks out in the water a bit between Rockview and little Wind n Sea. I'm not going to tell you where that is exactly because both those spots are firmly entrenched on the 'not-to-be-mentioned-on-the-world-wide-webs' category of surf-spots, but if you know them, you knew them already, and you already know where they are, and you'll know where this spot I was standing is. Anyways I went and stood there in the rain and wind and watched a lot of good waves come through. There were 2 dudes on longboards catching lefts and a few out at RV catching rights. I watched the lefts with much more attention. They were better waves anyways.

I wound up standing there and watching for so long that by the time I went back home, changed into my wetsuit, and went back outside the wind was howling out of control and the ocean looked like a completely different place. The guys on longboards who had been catching lefts were gone. So I wound up going to the best looking spot I could find which only had a few guys on it and tried to catch some of those drainers best I could. I caught a couple and didn't catch a lot. Wave really jacks up and pitches over right at that spot, is a lot of fun if you can handle it right. It was also fun because making the drop was more or less blind as the wind was blowing the entire top off the wave face so all it was a massive blast of spray as you're trying to line up your drop. So, just point and shoot and hope for the best. 

All in all I shouldn't have stood on that rock so long and should've got some of those hollow lefts I saw. But at least I got something which is more than can probably be said for most on this particular rainy stormy Sunday. 

Yep, good to live on the beach. Bad to own 3 raincoats. My employer, in the good 'ol days, used to give them away quite often. 

Hey, there's a rainbow right outside my window. Cool!