3:15 PM Joel: how was your best wave this morn
me: my best wave was a right
all the drops were pretty soft, slow takeoff
Joel: sheesh remember how good we got W****** that time a month ago?
me: i barely even got into it
3:16 PM Joel: man that was sweet
me: but the brewer foam helped me in and once I was in
I had it dialed, and it walled up real nice
Joel: anyhow slow takeoffs eh, mushburgers
me: one of those waves where you see the whole thing in front of you
Joel: cooooooooooo'
me: just a wall
Joel: aaaaahhh yeah
me: so I sped along it and tweaked the board up a bit higher for speed
and made it past that sectioning wall
Joel: dang what a champ
me: and then a little turn off the top, maybe a tiny bit of spray
3:17 PM and then back into the wave
Joel: more like 5 gallons
me: and then got clipped a bit by the lip
but recovered
Joel: barrelled
me: and then was trying to get back down the face
and fell forward, right on my face.
Joel: flying body surf exit
me: yeah, except I fell forward into the wave
3:18 PM If i hadn't fallen coulda probably kept going a bit further
but, I was pretty far in already
not sure if it was just going to close out completely but
I don't think it was, think I coulda gotten past that and made a clean exit
Joel: coulda launched an air
me: but I fell on my face instead
yeah, maybe an air
so that was a good wave.
3:19 PM and yes a month ago at W****** that was good.
Joel: really good
me: extremo good
Joel: like once ever 5 years good
3:20 PM me: ha, it was good
like once every 5 months good
Joel: what made it so good is nobody was on it
me: it gets good there a lot
Joel: i'd say way more than every 5 months
i'd say at least year
me: yes. that was kind of rare.
well, very rare.
pretty sweet.
this morning was fun. Not very crowded either.
3:23 PM Joel: cool
1 comment:
Sounds sick! I think you should just go with Joel's version
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