That's not a Surf Tune. THIS is a Surf Tune

 

Surf Punks: "My Beach! My Chicks! My Waves! GO HOME! GO HOME!"

Taken from the Wavewatch.com Pleasure Point cam, "Wavewatch Community" section, ... go there for the full story. 

Now GET LOST!!!

Session 8, 9; Wilbur

Get this...there were waves...actually arguably very good waves...on Sunday...I was hanging out at home...not really doing anything...and...

I didn't surf.

Not even one wave! Been a while I think since I could say that. But, a Sunday off every now and then, is a good thing. Recharging the proverbial surf batteries, stoke, what have you...ready to go now, would be on it in a flash tomorrow morning if not for a dumb 9 am meeting. (Guess I could still go but that'd be a pretty rushed morning sesh, Wednesday it is). But Sunday, yeah, good waves, but just hung out, Selin made a dope breakfast, french toast with real maple syrup and strawberries, we went on a walk down the beach, hit a few shops on 41st (got a belt and a tshirt from the newly cleaned up thrift store), went back home, watched some TV, contemplated building a surfboard rack inside, didn't do that, watched some basketball, did some laundry (that wasn't very cool, should've surfed instead of that), contemplated building a surfboard rack inside (again), didn't do that (again), ate RiceaRoni for dinner... just a relaxing Sunday at home. Pretty nice.

Saturday I surfed though, twice, Joel came over and we went out earlier at 2nd peak/sewers (Joel at least)/38th. Surfed the 7'6 kingfish. Good waves, that board is a disaster to duckdive. Makes up for it though in catching waves. Got a couple good ones inside 2nd peak, caught one long one and went out and caught a few more at 38th. Fun. Later in the day Joel still hanging around, we biked over to the neighborhood beachy and had a peak to ourselves, sure, not the best peak around but it was fun, in honor of Wilbur we were schralping like mad. Surfed the 6'2 KG. Got some fun waves and some closeout beach deathbarrels as well, including one I took a bit too far and wound up eating some serious sand, lucky didn't break the ol' KG w/ that kind of foolishness. 

And speaking of Wilbur, Joel got me a SWEET signed Wilbur Kookmeyer best-of book, that's right, autographed: "Wilbur Rules! Bob Penuelas" Now if that doesn't get you stoked for some super shredding, I don't know what does.

And if you don't know who Wilbur Kookmeyer is, you should. 

And if you don't have a signed copy of The Best of Wilbur Kookmeyer Collector's Edition, well, you should get one. Now!

Thanks bro. Very nice of you. Wilbur Rules!

Wilbur Kookmeyer. (Or Joel, perfecting his new flying board somesalt leash twist kick out. Sick move bro, SCHRALP!)

amazing photograph-taking superphone technology

Not a ton of Horace posts lately, so here's a couple cellphone camera snaps from weekend before last to tide you over, you surf-crazed permagroms!!

Not going to win any photo contests, no, but...not too shabby for a tiny little pocket device that also makes (and receives!) phone calls. Pretty sweet!!

(You know, that phone really is a pretty awesome thing. In addition to aforementioned photos and phone calls, it also surfs the web, lets me send photos directly to picasa, IM's, tells me movie times, sends email, heck it even makes Super Mario Brothers sound effects...sweeeeeet)

And yeah, pretty nice January weekend. 

Session 4, 5, 6, 7

Sat Jan 17: Lane, Sun Jan 18: 38th, Mon Jan 19(VACATION DAY YEAH!):38th, Hook  

4 sessions, one post...you might want to get used to it...things might get a bit crazy here at HoracethePig in 2009. I know I keep saying the same thing, just undecided still on how structured I'll keep these efforts this year...if I knew more about blog layout, I actually think I'd make the session-logging something off to the side, not the main focus...I want to keep it around, because I do like being able to look back at each month/year and see my progress, where I surfed, remember memorable moments, but probably not a detailed review on every session...I envision something like a little running tally of surfs off to the side somewhere, still prominent and still a central element, but not THE element. Write more about sessions when it is warranted, not feel obligated to write about every one...something like that. We'll see.

I did do some thinking though on what 2009 should focus on. 2008 I was very goal-oriented. My manager at work would be proud. Set myself out a very quantifiable, measurable, and even a bit of a stretch goal in some ways - 150 sessions. Then sat down and structured a way to keep track of it, in detail, monitor my progress, milestones along the way, with periodic reviews to make sure I was keeping on pace...end result, smashed the goal, incredible performance, where's my luminary award? So...that was all well and good. And, what do you know, I actually did get (a little?) better at surfing. But when I sit down and think, do I want another repeat goal for 2009? 150 quantifiable, measured by a number, regimented somewhat surf sessions? And my answer is no, not so much. So, I made my resolution for 2009 (get ready, this is corny): Surf For Fun. 

Make fun of it all you want. I know it sounds cheeseball "Riding Giants-esque" one big happy tribe, "come join us" (stealing a little bit from ColParker.blogspot here), but, I think that's what I'll try to do. Have fun. Don't worry about the goals, the numbers, the wave counts, the reports. If I'm not feeling a particular session, don't sweat it; if it's beautiful on the beach go on in and hang out for a while. If there's a bunch of dudes out yelling and ruining the session and I'm not feeling like getting in there, don't -- surf the leftovers as best I can or surf somewhere else entirely. Even if that somewhere else is soft-top infiltrated 38th. Have fun with it, surf when I can, as much as I can of course (can't get too soft now)...but, if the year ends at session #149, no big deal, hopefully it was 149 fun sessions.

How does the blog fit into all this, will continue to work that out. 

For now, like this: 

Saturday: Surf was good. I was lazy. Joel came over and rallied me midday/noonish. Checked quite a few town spots wound up at the Lane. Heck of a current to paddle against to stay in position, but managed to do so for a decent amount of time at least. Best potential wave I should've caught I wiped out on. To my credit stayed out of the way really well, plenty of waves all over though, all the peaks breaking, main obstacle not the crowds but the current. Caught one I didn't wipe out on and rode it through Indicators, hung out there and caught a few more. Nice day, lots of folks out and about enjoying summer in January.

Sunday: Coworker invasion! Bunch of friends from work came down south to enjoy our fortuitous 3 day weekend, coincided with good solid swell and seriously nearly 80 degree sunshine. So they came and swung by Lazytown rental shop, loaned out some gear and gave some quick lessons on surf ettiquete to those in need, and we walked on down to the beach. Beautiful day. For the most part, everybody managed to get at least a wave or two, although they were a bit few and far between on the outskirts of 38th, where they were staying to avoid the crowds...but the weather...how's this for an indication: i surfed in boardies and my 2/1 rashguard top...yes, in January. Didn't hurt I was on the 9'8 boat-board and stayed pretty much dry most of the session but, still, crazy.

Monday: MLK Day, coworkers had stayed the night at Katie's parents house in Aptos, came back over for a repeat of Sunday. Weather still cooperated, surf had gotten a bit messier and bit less crowded which was actually good, meant more disjointed waves for people to catch. I again surfed in boardies on the 9'8, good times. After a slice of pizza city kids went on their way, I took the 6'2 KG out at The Hook which was working quite nice, and caught quite a few insiders...best peak pretty crowded where waves were coming through and could actually stay in front for a nice long ride, I didn't hassle w/ that group and sat off at the first peak, where plenty of waves would come through that I could try (and inevitably fail) to keep up with. Or, go left, never object to that. Wore a wetsuit this time, 6'2 ≠ 9'8. 

Fun, amazing weather, great weekend. Can't we just make em all 3 days?  

Plastic (& Pilfering)

I often pilfer content from blogs much better than mine. One of my favorite targets is Surfrider's Blog, OceansWavesBeaches, for two main reasons: 1) the most frequent poster, Jim, is a great guy, came to G for a talk last year, and I -- somehow --  incredibly got to go to El Salvador of all places w/ him shortly afterwards, and 2) the blog is simply an extremely informative, interesting, relevant, and noteworthy piece of work. So go check it out and spend some time there if you don't already.

And once you're done w/ that (or before if you like), watch this YouTube clip I just pilfered off the site. Worth a quick watch. Recycling, yep, great...even better, don't use them at all...

Yep

First ever Presidential shaka!

Full story, posting text, and image all taken from Surfermag.com. Thanks! 

Aye Dios!

I got some flack from Joel today for no updates...

Here ya go, just for you.

I'm actually surprised those guys came out of that with just a few minor dings...must look worse than it actually was. That one they slowed down and repeated looked like should've at least broken a board. MORE CARNAGE!!!!

Kind of reminded me of a few times I've had some interesting exits from the Hook or even 38th on a huge swell/very high tide combination...learning experiences. (And I made it out each time with no dings, btw)

Thank you to StokeReport.com for the video, actually kind of an interesting website for SF/San Mateo surf scene, depending on your perspective, I suppose (as is always the case).

Session 3 - Jan 14 - OB

Wed Jan 14, 7-9 am, 6'8 Taylor

Session 3 on the books. Woke up early and made the haul to OB, met up with Taylor, Julian, Ryan, Andy...our motley surf crew mobbed a bit north of Noriega. Surf was fun, not incredible, small, but not tiny, fast, closing out a bit much, but definitely nothing worth complaining about, well worth the trip. Good to get up there and out and get some pre-work waves in, gotta get back in the routine. 

Blogging...still haven't figured that out. What to do what to do. Until I do, business as usual, I guess...

Weekend calling for a lot of surf, will have to make sure I'm on top of it. Looking forward to it, and a big thank you to my gracious employer for the day off on Monday, MLK day. Seems like it should shape up to be a good day to have off. 

Linkage

I read this and found it interesting. I do not know enough about politics and economics to intelligently comment further so I'll just post the link and leave it at that. 

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB123146363567166677.html

Thank you to Nelly's brother's gmail chat status message for the link. Maybe I'll read that book, I wonder if I'd like it. 

This link however I could comment on further, but I'm not going to do that either because I have some work to do. Starting with filming my application video. (Maybe?)

http://www.islandreefjob.com/

Thank you to the several sources I've already received that link from -- one mailing list here at work and Josh Connor aka Wee Mo aka Frosty. Pretty great marketing campaign actually, on par with Burger King's sacrifice Facebook friends promotion to get a free Whopper. Gettin' creative out there.

Session 1 & 2 - Jan 10, Jan 11 - WC

Sat Jan 10, 2-5, 6'6 Haut

Sun Jan 11, 2-4:30, 6'2 KG

What does 2009 have in store for Horace the Pig? I haven't quite figured that out yet. I don't know if I have the drive and desire to log every session again, a la 2008. While I liked it a lot from an organizational and monitoring-progress standpoint, I did get a little (just a little) tired of writing. About myself. All the time. Blogs such as this one are extremely self-absorbed entities...somebody in my family said it best. Was it my dad? Grampa? Joel? I don't remember. But basically they said my blog was just something I did so I could write about and tell everybody what I was doing at every moment, because, really, that is the first thing on everybody's mind at all moments in time, naturally. What did Nic do today? Pretty important stuff, the world would surely be at a loss without my detailed five paragraph chronicle on surf session #87 on June 10 at the Jetty on my 6'6 quad, where I got stuck behind a slow garbage truck on the drive over HW 92 in the morning, but was quite excited at how much sunlight there was already at 5:30 am. This is critical stuff here, can you imagine the impact on the world had I not blogged that on Horace for all to see for all eternity? 

So, suffice it to say that I haven't figured out what I'll do with Horace this year. But, in the meantime, I'll stick with the ol' routine. Get ready -- you won't want to miss this recap of exactly what I did on the weekend. Really, it's gripping stuff. 

On Saturday January 10 2009 I finally surfed for the first time in the New Year. Took ya long enough, old man. Joel came over the hill and picked me up and we carpooled up north to hunt down a bit more juice, looking clean but small (too small) out front. Beautiful sunny day, one of those winter SC days that I just love, crisp, clear air, bright blue skies, and all that ocean right out there doing its thing. Hardly any wind, glass on the water, got to our destination and saw only a few people out on the low tide (-1.6 at its lowest, I think), and our reward for making the trip clean, fun looking chest head high + sets coming through consistently. Suited up, walked down the hill and through the tide pools to a near empty peak, became empty after not too long, stayed there a bit and then moved over a bit further inside the bay, where was really working with some longer walled up lefts, rights as well...2 other guys, then one other guy, then no other guy...beautiful calm evening...got out (late for dinner date, woops) to a vivid setting sun...just an amazing place to be, beautiful. As for my surf got some good waves, pretty happy on that. 

Sunday. Pretty much a repeat of Saturday as far as the weather goes, swell maybe dropped a bit, but still working good out there, definite surf day...this time met Joel at our destination, surf check from the bluff didn't look as promising as yesterday, drove a bit further to check another spot, looked kind of closed out and sectiony from our roadside vantage point, I couldn't be late again on this evening so, just drove back to the easiest access parking lot and went out there. Good call, fun session, lots of waves, again no crowd, got some real good ones on the 6'2 speed demon fish, board flies when you put it in the right spot (which I do, occassionally)...good session, so far so good for 2009, 2 for 2. 

UPDATE: Joel felt under-recognized in this posting. "   Joel:  why did't you write about me throwing buckets"

Well, Joel, obviously it was lost on you that Horace is only about ME, Only, All the Time...but I'll grant you an exception just this once. I suppose. Joel was quite happy with our surf sessions as well, including what he called his best cutback ever, which yes, I did witness, and yes, he was throwing buckets. Nicely done, bro, shredding.

In non surf news, I also watched 'Gran Torino' on Saturday night in a packed theater downtown...great movie, I enjoyed it thoroughly. Highly recommended.

Thanks for reading. Important stuff, no?

2008

177 surf sessions. 

It seems like a lot...until you break it down individually by spot. My local break (just barely) was the one in front of my house. Guess that's good...it is what I pay the rent for, after all. But I only surfed there 31 times, in a whole year. Doesn't seem that impressive when you look at it that way. Here's the full breakdown, by spot.

2nd Peak: 31

LM: 28

Hook: 23

38th: 21

WC: 12

26th: 9

Lane: 7

OB: 7

Yo: 6

Jty: 5

MT: 3

4M: 2

Sharks: 1

Rockview: 1

Dunes: 1

GWC: 1

Cowells: 1

Plus a few out of towners: 

El Sal: 8

Puerto Rico: 7

Big F: 1

Malibu: 1

Ventura: 1

So, not that many at any one spot when you look at it like that. So many days...so few surfs...work -- really gets in the way of this whole surfing thing, doesn't it?

Since I'm at it, might as well give ya the breakdown by month too:

Jan: 9

Feb: 19

Mar: 23

Apr: 17

May: 14

Jun: 18
Jul: 12

Aug: 19

Sep: 16

Oct: 9

Nov: 16

Dec: 5

So, March. Surfed the MOST sessions in March. I guess that's a pretty good month to surf a lot. I wonder what will happen in 2009. So far we're not off to a very good start -- 9 days in, ZERO surfs. In fact, December wasn't that much better -- FIVE? Weak.

Enough negativity. Let's look at some of the highlights. I surfed several new-to-me spots. Central America was absolutely amazing. Puerto Rico, equally so. Surfed Malibu for the first time, not a classic day but fun out there. Ventura. Incredible mysto NorCal smugglers spot... 8 mile hike and all. Gettin some legs under me out at OB -- that's a good thing. The Yo -- thanks to some bros for gettin' me out there. 

Barrels? Plenty of the closeout variety. Still working on getting out of a legitimate one -- some day. 2009 sounds as good as any year for that. 

Epic sessions? I'll remember some of those late year ones at OB. Broken board? Check. (8'10 Vernor RIP). New Boards? Check. Check. Check. Yeah, a few too many of those. Kooking out? Well, yep. CHECK. Good times, Good Bros? Definitely CHECK. Great year, met some awesome new folks -- surf industry heavy hitters and good ol' Surf@G cronies alike. Many more surfs, friendship, and laughs to come in years far down the road. Got to be excited on that. 

Looking back -- good year. Fun to have it documented here. I'm sure when I'm old, I'll look back on the year fondly. And I'll remember the waves as 3x bigger than they actually were. 

Still...Wish I could've surfed more. Don't we all? 

Bustin' Down the Pig

Shaun Tomson, former world champ, is coming to the Santa Monica office on Thursday to give a little talk and discuss his documentary and book, Bustin' Down the Door. Just got notified of that. Pretty sweet. I'm working on making sure it gets VC'd up here so I can take part. 

Reading up a bit on the man I came across his Surfers Code, which I thought was worth a posting:

Surfer's Code

I will never turn my back on the ocean

I will always paddle back out

I will take the drop with commitment

I will know that there will always be another wave

I will realize that all surfers are joined by one ocean

I will paddle around the impact zone

I will never fight a rip tide

I will watch out for other surfers after a big set

I will pass on my stoke to a non-surfer

I will ride, and not paddle in to shore

I will catch a wave every day, even in my mind

I will honor the sport of kings

Simple, concise, to the point, and seems like a pretty good code to me. Nicely done. Looking forward to the talk!