Session 37 - Mar 9 - 2nd Peak

Sunday Mar 9, (More daylight savings!) 5 - 6:30 , 9'6 FSC

Daylight savings is great! I can also now surf after work -- sick. (a note on my use of surf slang "sick" "gnar gnar" etc: I don't really talk like this. But seeing this is primarily a surf blog, I'll use surf terms when applicable). I'm looking forward to many post work sessions to come, and probably even a good helping of daily doubles if I can get that to work out.

But back to Sunday, also a double session day. Following Steamers which was a lot of fun I came home, hung out a bit, mowed the lawn, checked the surf again and it looked pretty fun so back in the ocean it was. Put on an alternate wetsuit (the 3/2 rip curl, warm enough outside to start getting the 3/2 back in rotation) and grabbed the longboard. I thought I'd go out at 38th but actually wound up heading over to 2nd peak and got some really good ones out there. Great to be on the longboard, just cruuuuuuuuuuuisin'. Easy does it, can catch anything on that, even when my arms were exhausted from my earlier 4 hour session...Surf was pretty good, again not too crowded, crew of pretty much all longboarders. I sat kind of in the wrong position for a bit, further inside and too far over, where on the low tide it was really bowling up, pretty much a mini little slab type wave, which if you've never tried is pretty difficult to pull off on a 9'6 noserider single fin longboard -- maybe not for Bonga Perkins but it is for me. But there was no shortage of waves coming there so I tried my hand at it a few times, good practice at the least, some fun wipeouts mixed in with some that I made. After I had my fill of that I paddled out to better position and picked off some of the real gems, got some long rides, up (near) the nose, some decent longboard turns...good ol' fashioned longboard fun. Caught one final one rode it as far as I could, real nice wave, and headed for home. Showered, and then went to have sushi dinner with Selin. Tough life!