Sunday Nov 9, evening, 6'2 KS fishy
Yep, Santa Cruz, sorry to have doubted you. All that's keeping you now from moving higher is...about 20 degrees of water temperature, and about 2000 professional surfers. I've ranted about this before but the surf talent level in SC is so off the charts ridiculous...a lowly valley tranny like me...very quickly get delegated to scrap status.
But when those scraps are as delicious as they were on this particular evening, I can live with that. When the Hook is firing there are few places like it, nonstop perfection, was sweating in my 5/4/3, just a nonstop paddle/wave/paddle conveyor belt. As I said earlier was in full-on junkyard dog mode, keeping an eye on every wave as paddling out ready to pick up the scraps as some sponsored pro buried a rail on his mach speed cutback or botched the 360 air or whatever ridiculous maneuver was on display...I could pick up the leftovers and maybe throw a few drops of spray of my own. Humbling, but I'm not one to concern myself over trivial matters...stay outta the way, pick up what you can, and do your best...that's my philosophy.
Anyways heck of a session, welcome home.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment