Session 164 - Sun Nov 9 - 38th

Sunday Nov 9, midmorning afternoon sometime, 7'6 kingfish

On our way home from PR, Selin asked me where I'd rank PR on my all-time surf destination list. I was still pretty high on the week's many memorable waves, so I wound up ranking it pretty darn high...in fact actually my #2 of all time -- behind only Costa Rica. (I've scored some sweet LEFTS in Costa Rica). If I recall correctly, my quick list was Costa Rica, PR, Hawaii, Santa Cruz (home sweet home), Baja Mex, El Salvador, Mainland Mex...something like that. (India was an honorable mention for the sake of novelty...unfortunately the waves there were overwhelmingly mediocre at best...but for sheer novelty sake...tough to match surfing in front of an entire village of awestruck onlookers).

Point being, I don't think Santa Cruz was happy about it's low ranking...and decided to do something about it...something like non-stop head high to slightly overhead long racing rights, and considering it was Sunday...not even an out of control crowd.

Session 1 on the Kingfish was just a quick hitter...paddled on out with Thomas for a quick one...after catching a couple at 38th the draw of the bigger better waves on the horizon over at 2nd proved too tempting to resist, so battled the current and made my way over...quickly was rewarded for my effort in the form of a head high or so ride nearly all the way back to 38th. Paddled back over and repeated again, a few more times...wound up getting out at the stairs between 38th and the Hook. Lots of current going that day.

The real gem of a session didn't come together til' later that day...