Session 137 - Sep 7 - 38th

Sunday Sep 7, 5-7 pm, 9'8 Junod

Holy southswell batman! Whew! Wave mania! Wave after wave after wave, fun session at 38th to end the day. Swell really filled in, and a day early to boot, so the surfline masses weren't all on it quite yet and actually got more or less my pick of the waves. Mix up an occasional left to go with the long rights, sharing a little bit, everybody happy, everybody wins. Surfed the 9'8 barge and that thing is a behemoth on a solid wave, fun to ride although slow to turn, but to each board it's own...if I was good, I'd be camped out on the nose of that thing, just hanging out, taking in the scenery, maybe roasting a marshmallow, making some smores...noseriding machine. As it is though, my skills are progressing, was able to make a few forays into near-nose territory...maybe about 6 inches or so from the tip...fun waves. Couple paddles, make the drop, crank the slow bottom turn back up to the face of the wave, set your line, cross-step (or in my case, waddle) to the (almost) nose, and cruise.

Fun surf, there's no place like home when the surf is good.