Session 102 - July 11 - LM

Friday July 11, 7 - 9 AM, 8'6 Pariah

Making the most of this heat wave, headed back up to LM to see what I could find. Gotta love this warm weather, get to shed the booties, the less rubber the better...was downright comfortable out there this morning, water probably about 60 degrees and sun shining.

Conditions improved throughout the morning, one of those sessions where you keep telling yourself 'this will be my last wave I need to get to work' but then you kick out (or more likely get closed out on)...but instead of continuing in to the beach you unconsciously point your board seaward and before you know it are paddling right back out for another one...no complaints here. Was joined by Manabu and Ren, always nice to have some friendly company. 2nd session on the 8'6 Pariah rescue-operation and continued to like it, worried after every thumping I'll surface to find it broken in half but so far so good, repairs holding up well. Surf was about head high, bigger on the closeout sets, but with the longboard can actually get into those closeouts early enough to make it fun...especially w/ the wind blowing pretty hard directly offshore, holding things open for juuuust long enough to entice you into that drop-in and race the closeout lip scenario, time after time...(I won a few races this morning, but the ocean is still quite a ways ahead)...

My shoulder held up well and while it was bothering me a little bit, didn't put too much of a damper on the session. 4 Advil first thing in the morning probably had a little something to do w/ that.

Excited for the weekend!