dawn patrol

Fun Linda Mar session this morning. Decided to dust off the old Randy French surftech, more commonly referred to as "the leaf" due to it's leaflike deck color, and see what I can do. I can't say I was extremely wasn't thrilled with my results, but it often takes a session to get used to a board I haven't used in a while. That board is kind of an odd shape though, it has this huge center fin on it and it seems a bit narrow throughout. I will check the exact dimensions soon as now I'm curious, if it's the board or just me. Will update soon.

Anyways was out there from 7:15 to about 9, in to the office by 9:45 -- if only traffic could always be that light. If you weren't already aware, there was a big oil spill in SF a few weeks ago...beaches have been closed and there's been a lot of news about it, it is a pretty big deal after all. But fortunately the beaches are now open again and the water seems safe. I'm doing OK still at least, haven't passed out at my desk. And there were probably 40 or so other guys out there as well. As for the surf, it was pretty good Linda Mar conditions, kind of a lot of closeouts but good quick waves if you can make 'em. I make some and miss some. It's good to have some wipeouts though, Santa Cruz waves tend to be just so nice I don't wipeout often...taking it too easy. Challenging the faster steeper closing-outier waves is good for me.

So there is a guy who takes pictures at Linda Mar a lot and posts them on his site: http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/store.aspx?p=32347. He was there this morning and took a lot of photos, but unfortunately none of me. I must've been going too fast. Because he did manage to catch this guy who was falling and flailing all over the place near where I was for a while...next time I'll make sure to surf right in front of the photographer so I can get famous also. :)

Headin' home for Thanksgiving tomorrow morning, looking forward to it!