Fun surf on Thursday, had been a while so good to get a nice long two session day in. Here's a few shots I took before session #2, at a surf spot doing a very good job of pretending to be a different spot that it isn't. Kind of like the dude that's playing a dude disguised as another dude, but, not really. Great line. Funny movie.
Shooting from directly on top of the wave like that makes for an interesting perspective. Don't usually see the back side of the wave like that...were lots of these perfect little lined up triangle shapes coming through this particular day. Pretty nice. Looks easy, huh?
Unridden waves are nice too...
Took today off surf to get some more work done...on it full time tomorrow though. Hope for sunshine!
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4/4 UPDATE for anyone who cares: instead of surfing on my day as originally planned I proceeded to get painfully ill. My guess is it was from THIS above posted surf day. Rain + Runoff = Runs (for me). Not fun. I'm finally feeling better now (managed to eat a whole breakfast burrito this morning, that's more food than I've consumed in the past 3 days combined!) but now, of course, the surf sucks. Lesson: Surf when you can!
(or perhaps lesson: don't surf after heavy rains because you might get really sick.)
(nah...that's lame)
(Lesson: Surf when you can!)
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